17087124, 17085001, or 17058213?

[dayzedandkonfuzed]

The 17087124 is super clean inside and out, and has had the mixture screw caps removed from the baseplate. I havent looked closely at the other 2, would they be a better start for any reason? What parts can be interchanged for more power?

Will be bolted to a vortec-headed 350, air gap intake, 2.02/1.6 valves, comp cam 280/280 duration; 480/480 lift, flat top pistons (about 10.3:1 compression,) TH350 (for now,) 3.73 posi out back.

[omaha]

the 17087124 SHOULD be an electronic carb. If it is correct it should have the electrical connection for the solenoid on the right/front/top of the carb. I am not sure if this is what you would want unless you are going to put it on an 86-87 chevy with the computerized carb originally installed. IMHO, I think that the 17085001 would be a better choice. Now if you had the computer??? (for the '87) you could make the 17087124 work with good mpg for the street, otherwise I would not recommend it for a street driven vehicle. They do make great race carbs once you remove the electronics and just run them on the primary jets alone. The 17085001 would have the adjustable apt and other good attributes. Actually the 17058213 could work also but between the 3 I would choose the 17085001.

[dayzedandkonfuzed]

I dont think its a computer controlled carb. it has a dual capacity accelerator pump but i can simply leave that un plugged. I'm pretty sure the 7124 also has apt, but havent verified that yet.

[omaha]

ok, I got it, thought it might be electronic BUT if its just that accelerator pump deal than all is good (for the most part). Only thing that might be a problem would be the extra passage for the accel under the solenoid. You could fill that up with something like lead etc. Something that wont get eaten by the gas. Yes the dual accel solenoid carbs do have the APT and most if not all (95% sure on this) were the larger size. (DOH!.. That's right..) the dual accel pump carbs did not have the Throttle sensor so they are not computer controlled. I had to go look at one...(took it apart). The guy that gave me this carb said it was electronic controlled, that got me confused I guess. Guess I'll have to start looking for these .
  So, in the end, the 2 carbs are fairly similar. Go with the one that looks best. You can make either one work.

[dayzedandkonfuzed]

Is it really important that i fill that extra passage under the solenoid? I only ask because i have finished rebuilding the 7124 already.

I might add that this was a great choice to modify as it has the .125" main air bleeds. Being so large it also had larger jets, .070 with matching metering rods, larger idle tubes, .090" etc etc. So all i really had to do was make some restrictions for the main air bleeds down to .070", drill out the holes under the mixture screws to .095 (should have been .106 but didnt have the drill bit, and they started way small around .055-.060,) and modify the base plate and secondary air flap.

Of course when i pulled it apart, the apt screw was already seated (yikes) but luckily my rebuild kit instructions mentioned 3-4 turns up. Hoperfully this works, but at least i have access to the screw now.

[omaha]

Well its not really necessary to plug the hole as long as the solenoid is still intact and is in decent shape. It will seal up the hole but sometimes you might worry as to how long this will seal the hole. As long as the wires are not connected, and the solenoid is sealing the hole, the accel pump should be normal. Its only when the solenoid is activated does it have the effect of reducing the pump shot through the accelerator pump.  This is as much as what I know about them. They were used for emissions obviously so that when the engine warms up, the pump shot will be less. (= less emissions??)  I am about 88% sure. haha Good luck!!