Not Carb but Heads question

[streetjeep]

This is the description. What do you think for less than 800 for a pair?
New pair of assembled sb chevy World Products S/R Torquer series Iron heads # 42660. Cylinder heads are for carbureted 1955 - 1986 small block 327, 350, 377, 383 or 400 engines. (377 & 400 applications for street would require steam holes to be drilled. We can drill the steam holes for an additional $30.00 for the pair. ) 67cc combustion chambers. ( These heads are also available in 76cc versions - see our other lot listings for this chamber size ) Straight plug design. High flow 170cc intake runners. Hardened steel exhaust seats compatible with unleaded gasoline. Heads are adequate for engines with a projected horsepower in the 400 HP to 450 HP range. Integral cast valve guides. Universal end pads accept all early and late model accessories. Heads have both the perimeter and centerbolt holes for valve covers. These heads are assembled in our machine shop. Seat concentricy is checked. Assembled with PBM race series 1 piece EV-8 stainless 2.02 intake valves and 1.60 exhaust valves with chrome plated and undercut stems, swirl polished stem and hardened tips.  New .600 max. lift 1.250 stock diameter valve springs with 110 # of seat pressure, new steel retainers, hardened locks, and umbrella valve seals. Screw in rocker arm studs (3/8") and guide plates are also included. All machine work is done in our own shop on quality equipment.

[Zac Agee]

sounds like a good deal considering in the machine shop i work in i cant rebuild a set of heads, put larger valves in with screw in studs and guide plates for 800 bucks. id like to see some flowbench numbers myself to compare to AFR's or Even RHS's but for a mild motor be alot better off then rebuilding a set

[streetjeep]

Zac Agee, that is my thinking, especially when I have the stock 4bbl heads off the 68 and would do them only.  But, found another possibility. They are Aluminum Heads. The Castings are ProComp. They are on e-bay through SkipWhite. He says he used to use procomps, but had problems so quit, then after Procomp talked to him because they had improved their heads, he went back to using them. He offers a 3 year, unlimited mileage warranty. Here is a link. Your thoughts?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-CHEVY-190CC-FULLY-BUILT-ALUMINUM-HEADS-64CC-HYD-FLAT-TAPPET-S64190272-PBM-/350552423001?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item519e8d7a59

[Zac Agee]

not a bad deal on a set of aluminium heads we never used procomps out here. as long as the tolerances are good and not a poor casting they could be worth it. i just don't know how good there quality controll is, check with some good machine shops in your area on them doesn't hurt

[73 Z28]

 I'd go with aluminum heads. They will not only save weight, but disapate heat faster which allows you to run higher compression ratios. If I was building a street performance 327, I'd use a head like the dart shp 180cc intake runner heads which are about a little more than the 800 you were spending but with dart you get a good product. I believe those heads can handle up to .525 lift. I'd match that up with a comp cams XE262H flat tappet cam a decent intake and headers and you'd have a nice build. Oh and use headgasket 10105117 from GM performance parts with a compressed thickness of .028 which acts just like milling the heads .010 it's free performance(well almost after buying the gaskets)

Paul

[Shark Racer]

ProComp heads are a very bad choice. For every one person who's had success you'll find 5+ who have had to have heavy machine work done to get them to run.

The S/R torquers will be easier to install, but are iron heads and the S/R stands for "stock replacement", pretty much. Yeah, a big valve head will be likely be a bit better than stuff that came out in the 70's, but it's honestly a lot of cash.

The cheapest "go fast" solution is a pair of Vortecs, failing that, check out the Dart SHP line. Not bad heads, and you'll get a pair of assembled heads for just over $1k. Bare come in at a hair over $800.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/drt-127322/overview/

[streetjeep]

ProComp heads are a very bad choice. For every one person who's had success you'll find 5+ who have had to have heavy machine work done to get them to run.

The S/R torquers will be easier to install, but are iron heads and the S/R stands for "stock replacement", pretty much. Yeah, a big valve head will be likely be a bit better than stuff that came out in the 70's, but it's honestly a lot of cash.

The cheapest "go fast" solution is a pair of Vortecs, failing that, check out the Dart SHP line. Not bad heads, and you'll get a pair of assembled heads for just over $1k. Bare come in at a hair over $800.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/drt-127322/overview/

I too have heard ProComp's problems, but an ebay store by Skip White, an machine shop for racing stuff, says those problems have been dealt with. He used to do ProComp heads, had problems, quit, but ProComp urged him to try again after ProComp claimed they fixed things. Skip White's explanation under all his now ProComp bare heads he assembles with quality parts and come in at under 700 a pair minus studs and guide plates says he THOROUGHLY tested a few sets before deciding the were a lot better. He went so far as to slice one up and see what the quality was. He does suggest NOT buying an assembled by ProComp head, but he says the ProComp bare heads are now very good. From what I have been hearing, much of the bad choice advice might be based on the earlier or assembled by ProComp heads.  Skip White offers a 3 year unlimited mileage warranty on his ProComp heads if you use the studs and guide plates he says. Sounds like he is pretty happy!
But, I can't go with a 190cc runner head. Too much for a basically stock rebuild. So, probably Summits "stock" heads that have 202/160 valves and the 165cc chamber (Dart castings) because I have going with a pretty mild cam.

[Shark Racer]

Vortecs would be real nice, although you'll have to go with a new manifold. "Hello" torque.

[Zac Agee]

on a stock rebuild mild work on a set of heads would be perfect and on side note on the vortec heads there FAMOUS for cracking only the later years had a decent casting with that said the early ones you don't Even want to work with.
truly on a stock rebuild just do some mild pocket porting, bowl blending, and gasket match on your factory 68 heads then have them rebuilt with hardened exhaust seats you don't need the guide plates or screw in studs for a mild build like that can spend the money other places truthfully. might Even unshroud the valves a little if there factory 64cc heads with 2.02 and 1.60 valves they breath way better with mild work

[streetjeep]

Arriving tomorrow:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Performance/809/12558060/10002/-1?parentProductId=749896
A guy on trifive.com that built heads for many years for many conditions for many "big" names said big runners and valves on a non-race carbed daily driver with a mild cam, headers, and a basic aluminum intake would flow too "easily" and let the gas be "lazy" causing the engine to load up, so his suggestion was rebuild the stock 250 hp heads but move to 1.94 valves. Others agreed that 190 runners and 2.02 valves would actually be not good. Sooo  ....

[Shark Racer]

190 runners and 2.02 valves aren't necessary if you don't go over 3K much. If you do, well... they make life a lot nicer.

For a cruiser, though, vortec heads are hard to beat for the investment.