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Not Carb but Heads question
Shark Racer:
ProComp heads are a very bad choice. For every one person who's had success you'll find 5+ who have had to have heavy machine work done to get them to run.
The S/R torquers will be easier to install, but are iron heads and the S/R stands for "stock replacement", pretty much. Yeah, a big valve head will be likely be a bit better than stuff that came out in the 70's, but it's honestly a lot of cash.
The cheapest "go fast" solution is a pair of Vortecs, failing that, check out the Dart SHP line. Not bad heads, and you'll get a pair of assembled heads for just over $1k. Bare come in at a hair over $800.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/drt-127322/overview/
streetjeep:
--- Quote from: Shark Racer on March 10, 2013, 09:50:48 AM ---ProComp heads are a very bad choice. For every one person who's had success you'll find 5+ who have had to have heavy machine work done to get them to run.
The S/R torquers will be easier to install, but are iron heads and the S/R stands for "stock replacement", pretty much. Yeah, a big valve head will be likely be a bit better than stuff that came out in the 70's, but it's honestly a lot of cash.
The cheapest "go fast" solution is a pair of Vortecs, failing that, check out the Dart SHP line. Not bad heads, and you'll get a pair of assembled heads for just over $1k. Bare come in at a hair over $800.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/drt-127322/overview/
--- End quote ---
I too have heard ProComp's problems, but an ebay store by Skip White, an machine shop for racing stuff, says those problems have been dealt with. He used to do ProComp heads, had problems, quit, but ProComp urged him to try again after ProComp claimed they fixed things. Skip White's explanation under all his now ProComp bare heads he assembles with quality parts and come in at under 700 a pair minus studs and guide plates says he THOROUGHLY tested a few sets before deciding the were a lot better. He went so far as to slice one up and see what the quality was. He does suggest NOT buying an assembled by ProComp head, but he says the ProComp bare heads are now very good. From what I have been hearing, much of the bad choice advice might be based on the earlier or assembled by ProComp heads. Skip White offers a 3 year unlimited mileage warranty on his ProComp heads if you use the studs and guide plates he says. Sounds like he is pretty happy!
But, I can't go with a 190cc runner head. Too much for a basically stock rebuild. So, probably Summits "stock" heads that have 202/160 valves and the 165cc chamber (Dart castings) because I have going with a pretty mild cam.
Shark Racer:
Vortecs would be real nice, although you'll have to go with a new manifold. "Hello" torque. :)
Zac Agee:
on a stock rebuild mild work on a set of heads would be perfect and on side note on the vortec heads there FAMOUS for cracking only the later years had a decent casting with that said the early ones you don't Even want to work with.
truly on a stock rebuild just do some mild pocket porting, bowl blending, and gasket match on your factory 68 heads then have them rebuilt with hardened exhaust seats you don't need the guide plates or screw in studs for a mild build like that can spend the money other places truthfully. might Even unshroud the valves a little if there factory 64cc heads with 2.02 and 1.60 valves they breath way better with mild work
streetjeep:
Arriving tomorrow:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Performance/809/12558060/10002/-1?parentProductId=749896
A guy on trifive.com that built heads for many years for many conditions for many "big" names said big runners and valves on a non-race carbed daily driver with a mild cam, headers, and a basic aluminum intake would flow too "easily" and let the gas be "lazy" causing the engine to load up, so his suggestion was rebuild the stock 250 hp heads but move to 1.94 valves. Others agreed that 190 runners and 2.02 valves would actually be not good. Sooo ....
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