455 with 1969 "7029268WF" carb.

[BYoung11]

  I have the .030 over 455 up and running. It has 7K3 heads (about 9.5:1) and a Crower 60916 camshaft. Forged Speedpro pistons and the "cheap" forged rods from Butler. I have it all broken in and it is down to tuning the timing and the carb. Timing (going off of my older build with a 60919) ended up with 30 total at WOT (set by unplugging the vac advance and revving to 3000rpm) and about 8-10 degrees of vacuum advance (I welded the travel of the advance unit "window"). Let me know if you think I am off about the timing but I post here Cliff because I know you have used both of these Crowers in engines before. The carb is quite "untouched" it appears and of course it will not run at all on the idle circuit, I figured it would not since the other engine with the 60919 didn't. I had the carb off and on that engine 4-5 times getting it right but was able to idle with zero nozzle drip, pull strong throughout, and run 12.70's in the quarter in my old blue Lemans with your help Cliff! I met you at a test and tune at Dragway 42 back when I lived in OH 10 years ago. I want to ask if you can give me the numbers I will likely have to open thing up to as well as the a list of all the places I need to address. I know I need to open up the idle air holes in the base plate but I forget what size I ended up with. The secondary fill holes I believe needed opened up too. Just a quick "off the top of your head" list and sizes will do, I plan to have to sneak up a bit but I REALLY want to avoid taking it all off 4-5 times!

[BYoung11]

I should open the brass tubes that are .035 to .038 as well right? I have the pin vise and a few aircraft length drills going up from .036 up to about .042. One last question, do you sell complete rebuild kits with a brass float for this carb?

[Cliff Ruggles]

We sell anything you would want for that carb number, and can spec out idle tubes and tuning parts for exactly what you are doing. 

We do not sell or recommend brass floats here, they are too heavy and will leak and sink to the bottom of the bowl.  The modern closed cell nitrophyl floats are better and we've had zero issues with them......Cliff

[BYoung11]

Thanks for the heads up on the brass floats Cliff! I had already gone with some changes conservatively and they worked out quite well. The base plate idle air bypass holes I opened up to .093 and the idle tubes I opened up to .038. I started with the idle speed screw just open far enough so there was no bore bind and the transition slots were just barely out of sight. I started and warmed the engine and it idled but way too low. I had to go up almost one full turn on the speed screw to get the idle speed correct but there is no nozzle drip now. Oh, the idle mixture screws had already been opened up to ~ .100 (.093 fit quite loose and the screw on the straight diameter is only .125, .100 is best guess). I think it is good to go now. The idle speed barely drops when in gear and some quick blips of the throttle hard enough to brake torque the rear tires still returns to the correct in gear idle without stalling. A few wiring issues with the tail light and such and I will be able to get a good road test!