Quadrajet Problem Solving > Dialing in your rebuilt Quadrajet carburetor
Freshly rebuilt quadrajet flooding from top of carb
Cliff Ruggles:
Always replace the float during a rebuild. The latest design nitrophyl floats are fine and will not swell up, or absorb fuel and sink.
Brass floats are horrible, they are not the correct weight, or as buoyant as the nitrophl floats. The also develop leaks at the soldered joints and sink.
We have had ZERO issues with the latest production stock type floats, in any type of fuel.....Cliff
gregcarter:
I forgot to mention that the Edelbrock tech was adamant about using 7/16ths float adjustment(.4375), which is lower than any spec I've seen in the book so far. Would you use that number?
The guy sounded a little young.....
G. Carter
Cliff Ruggles:
What is the carburetor number?
Why is a "tech" at Edelbrock involved with the deal?
They need to come here for training on q-jet stuff. They had LOTS of issues, and the same part number could show up with half a dozen different calibrations, and all of them needed help in one or more areas.
They do make EXCELLENT q-jets, once you get good parts in them and correctly calibrated. Their castings were very well made, and typically in better shape than q-jet cores that have been around nearly half a century at this point......Cliff
I attached a pic of what most Edelbrock 1910 pump seals look like when they show up here!
gregcarter:
This flooding occurred long ago, and the Edelbrock conversation was long before I found your website.
The carb is a 1902 Edelbrock version qjet.
I have been reading the book while waiting for my drill bits to get here.
I noticed that the specs and recommendations for the Edelbrock carbs are only for the 1910, which is a 850 cfm unit.
The 1902 is rated for 750 cfm, so I'm not sure the recipes relate to my carb.
I will measure everything up today, and get back to you with my engine and carb specs to see if need to change anything.
The original problem was stalling when stopping and real poor idle quality after rebuilding, so I guess I didn't clean out the idle circuits adequately. You mention that Edelbrock provided enlarged idle circuits, so we'll see if I need to increase anything here after I measure it.
I have disassembled the carb, drove one idle tube too far and bent it down in the shaft.
I made a small bend in a piece of music wire, and sharpened the tip, and stuck that down into the tube and was able to hook it and raise it up, and bend the tube from the top with a small screwdriver to help get it around the corner. It actually came out the adjacent larger hole. Took about 2 hours. (this was before I received the book)
Then I broke the heads off 4 screws on the plates before I read on the forum about the heating the locktite trick.
I made a small centerpunch and punched a hole in the offending screws from both sides, then drilled a .050 hole in just a little, adjusted the center if it look off by angling the shaft and drilling a little deeper before drilling all the way thru.
Then I went to a .065 and then a .070. Then I got a slightly larger bit, heated the shaft, drilled from the bottom, and the bit caught the small remaining piece of screw upon exiting almost every time.
I noticed that the airhorn and body are warped and am considering straightening them.
I actually sanded the airhorn almost flat before I read that the gasket would take care of the problem.
So now I have some plates to drill holes through to make the jig, but I haven't seen any info on heating while straightening if necessary.
I thought I'd heat the assembled jig and carb in the oven to 350 or so, and then tighten the straightening bolts.
Ok?
So now I'm going to rebush the baseplate with your kit I received.
I'm going to order .035 idle tubes for this unit to replace the old ones and get back to you for any modifications you recommend.
Thanks,
Greg Carter
gregcarter:
On the Edelbrock 1902, I just noticed that the secondary shafts are 3/8ths, not 5/16ths like the primary shafts. There is very slight front to back movement on the secondaries, so perhaps I should skip rear bushings?
Thanks,
G. Carter
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