Picking Intake

[JimC]

I have procrastinated enough.  It is time to get the Holley off my Jimmy and Q-jet back on.

I currently have 2 Edelbrock 2101 intakes.  An Edelbrock EPS is on now and that comes off.


Do I need to look at another?  Or is a 2101 all I need for intake?


Jim, KF4KOB

[omaha]

I would think that a 2101 intake would be perfect for a Jimmy. Unless you are trying to spin the motor at some astronomical RPM's, the 2101 is a great choice. The best part is that is has the "spread-bore" carburetor pattern built into the manifold. No adapters are required. THet Q-jet will bolt right on. I believe the power band is from 1000 to 5500, good for low end "grunt".

[Cliff Ruggles]

Stock iron is equally as good if not better.  The iron holds the heat and was the result of a lot of R & D for the SBC engines.....Cliff

[JimC]

You got to remember, I am a poor person.  That is why I still drive an 81 Jimmy that has cancer and needs a paint job badly.

Is a stock intake something I can get from a junkyard or do you mean one of the performance ones from GM?

Jim

[omaha]

You should have no problem finding a stock intake, particularly at a swap meet. You might have a hard time not tripping over one! They're all over the place. you can find them at the salvage yard too.
Look under hoods of pickups and vans built in the 70' (some 80's also) I like pulling them from vans cause you can sit inside the van and work on the engine, even while its raining. HAHAHA                                  ( Didnt mean to sway you to the elde-b, just thought that since you got it, it would work if needed)  Cliff is right though about the heat retention of the iron. Makes for better street manners!!

[77cruiser]

With that you can probably pick up a used 2101 on Ebay for $50.

[JimC]

I have 2 2101's if anyone is interested.  The only thing I remember about the stock intake is that it weighed a ton.  Will call the j-yard this week and find one.

Then we can work on the carb.

Thanks for the info,

Jim

[JimC]

Haven't found an intake yet, but I'm confident. 

How do folks feel about carb spacers?


Jim

[Cliff Ruggles]

For most applications they are not needed.  I did some extensive testing with spacers a few years ago, street and at the track. 

I built and tested the following:

4 hole 1", fully open 1", fully divided 1",  semi-open 1"

All were street and track tested.  The 4 hole provided slightly smoother off idle throtte response, but ran slowest at the track.  The semi-open was about the same.  The fully open was the worst for street driving.

The sem-open ran the most MPH at the track, but was .02 seconds slower than no spacer at all.....Cliff

[JimC]

That's interesting.  Thanks. 
What does timing do for fuel economy?  I have a Goodwrench 350 249hp.  The compression is low, some say as low as 8.4 to 1.

I currently have the initial set at 15 degrees and my distributor has a mechanical of 21 degrees.  What would going up on the initial do, say to 16 degrees?

Thanks again,

Jim

[Cliff Ruggles]

Initial and total mechanical advance timing should be established base on heavy/full throttle engine power and ease of starting when hot. 

Use the vacuum advance to fine tune fuel economy as it is only applied at light throttle cruising (ported source), or at idle, light throttle cruising and coasting (manifold source).

I don not like or use the cheap spring/weight kits designed for most stock distributors.  Most factory distributors have a very good timing curve, which can be "tweaked" with a few minor modifications to the center cam and weights.  Light springs more often than not allow some of the advance curve to come in at idle speed, which can/will cause idle speed fluctuations in and out of gear (auto trans vehicles)....Cliff