hydraulic roller lifters

[429bbf]

has anybody had good luck with hydraulic roller lifters ?all i here from folks (people that build engines for a living ) is that they are no good . they say use solid roller lifters . all comments are welcome pros and cons . thanks in advance . 351 small block 1979 it will be apex. 10.5 comp static , 1910 edelbrock,not sure on cam yet possibly custom ground 112 degree.maybe 114 depending on how everything works out  also broadax heads 70.cc appox.  just a note all the heavy equipment i work on has been using solid rollers since some where around 1975 and still use today with 20,000 hrs before overhaul.which would compute to appox. 1,000000 miles. fwiw

[429bbf]

anybody got any experience with these . I'm ready to order my cam and lifters.all pros and cons welcome . thanks in advance

[77cruiser]

Give Chris a call & see what he can do.

http://www.straubtechnologies.com/contact-us/

[429bbf]

thanks for the info

[omaha]

I think the hydraulic rollers are just fine.  The newer  versions can spin a bit more rpm than the older ones. Are you going to use a factory roller block ?  Supposedly rpm is the limiting factor. Just do your homework. They are more expensive also but no worries about breaking in the cam.

[429bbf]

using 79 no roller block gonna spin 7 plus

[Miles]

Almost all new engines use them and they are great, Aftermarket retro fit, not so much.
Just google retro fit hydraulic roller lifter failures and you may change your mind about using them.
I just spent over $4000 on parts and repairs due to failed hydraulic roller lifters. Had to buy new cam, pistons, lifters, rockers, grind crank etc.etc.
Now there are going to be some who say there are hundreds of aftermarket hydraulic  roller setups that are working just fine. But there are also hundreds that have failed. Is it worth the chance?
If I were going to spin at 7000+ RPM I'd use a solid roller.
Just my opinion and experience.
Al

[429bbf]

 i went with bullit 226-234 at .050    gross valve lift .565  also went with solid lifters ill probably set the valves at .005 and call it good 112 separation fwiw

[CJK440]

My cam grinder recommended Morel hyd rollers to go with my grind. Not cheap but hopefully you get what you pay for.

I'm not a valve train engineer but I would think that a retrofit hyd lifter could experience 2 issues. Roller failure or valve failure. I am not sure how a solid roller would improve roller reliability, actually coming off the lobe every cycle sounds harder than full contact. And I don't know why the valving on a hyd roller would be unique compared to any other hyd lifter, OEM, flat etc.

[Cliff Ruggles]

7000 rpm's is out of the range for HR lifters or any hydraulic type lifter for that matter.  It takes special parts and procedures to run hydraulic lifters to those rpm's but I don't recommend it for a street engine.

Some will tell you that they will be reliable at that rpm's, but I build engines here and right on the dyno we will see many retro-fit HR"s start to go "South" around 5800rpm's or so depending on the weight of the associated parts and spring pressures.

I would take them OFF my list if you are building a high winding engine that will frequently see past 6000rpm's.

The other problem is that the quality of the aftermarket retro-fit stuff is all over the map.  Inconsistencies in plunger to body tolerances show bleed-down rates all over the place.  Morel is a big manufacturer of HR's for the aftermarket.  I've noticed numerous changes to them over the years, shorter plunger travel, stronger plunger springs, etc, but they are still not a good high rpm part....IMHO.

I use and prefer the Crower HIPPO solid rollers for street use when a roller lifter is desired.  I have them in my own engine and they have been flawless since 2009.  I'm running them on a HR cam or "hybrid" set up at .005" lash.

It is the quietest engine for valve train noise I've ever had in the car.  The engine makes peak power around 5800rpm's but has strong valve springs and fine past that rpm the few times I've taken it there.  Matter of fact if you aren't quick on the shifter it revs right past 6500rpm's so fast you have to anticipate the shift to keep from over-revving it.

My last engine has retro-fit HR's in it and was DONE by 5800rpm's just like there was a rev-limiter in the distributor.....FWIW.....Cliff