Quadrajet Problem Solving > Diagnose a Quadrajet carburetor problem

New rebuild leaking fuel

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Cliff Ruggles:
I see a few problems in the pics, hopefully they were corrected when you rebuilt it.

The vacuum source to the distributor in the front of the carb is plugged.  I'm assuming someone moved it to the side of the carb or the wrong source elsewhere.

The link from the pull-off to the secondary air flap shaft is backwards.

About all that needs to happen here is the airhorn very gently flattened so it can re-conform to the main casting.

If you bought an SR kit it comes with the .015" thicker MB to AH gaskets.  If it leaks with that gasket in place then the parts have a very poor fit to each other, or your fuel level is way too high in the bowl.......Cliff

Stitch:
Cliff,
Thanks for the response here.  You sent me an SR kit, my AH gasket is 0.050".  The bowl to throttle body gasket is 0.115".  I see gaps in some areas of the bowl to air horn in the neighborhood of 1-1.5mm at the most.  I'm guessing I need to heat it up, any tips on that so I don't either crack it or melt it?  If I can straighten it a bit, can I reuse the gaskets, or should I order a new set?

The distributor is plugged right behind the choke.  You can see the hose in the second picture I posted in the last post.  This is how it was when I got the truck, so I assumed it was right.  Now that you brought this up, I'm looking at that hole, it's not even a vacuum port, is it?  It's supposed to have a post there, but I have a hole.  I'm posting a picture below.  So do I need to plug this hole now?  There is nothing coming through the bracket there, it is a hollow post cut off right behind that bracket. 

Thanks for pointing out the backward linkage.  I didn't catch that, so I probably did put it back on backward again.  I'll be sure to put it on right this time.

Since you're here, I have two more questions.  The choke pull off I got has a slight bend in it where my old broken one didn't.  I'm not sure which is correct, can you look at the photo below and let me know if this is ok?  If I need to bend it straight, I can try.  If I need a new one, I'll buy one from you because I cracked the plastic flange installing it anyway and I probably should replace it. 

The other thing is my meters and jets.  This thing seems to be set up pretty rich and I'm not sure it's right.  It looks like my secondary bores were wet, not sure if that's why I was getting gas on the gasket.  Never having ran a carb before, I don't know how wet it is supposed to get inside the secondaries.  But my secondary rods measure 0.055".  Primary jets aren't stamped, but I think they are about 77 and the meters are 24.  Not sure if that is ideal or not.  Seems rich if I had to guess, but I really don't know what I'm talking about.  The vehicle is a 60's land cruiser, 4-spd, 350 swap, geared low for off-road. 

Cliff Ruggles:
The correct vacuum source to the distributor for that engine is from the ported source in front of the carbs main casting not the manifold source on the choke side.  That port was typically used to provide the air cleaner with vacuum instead.

The arm on the pull-off is adjustable to unload the choke angle at start up.  So no worries bending it if/as needed.

I would replace the jets and metering rods with the correct items.  The factory parts were well marked, so not sure what might be in there if you can't find letters/numbers on them.

A successful job starts with getting a good fit between the parts so you aren't leaking air and spilling out fuel where it isn't supposed to be.........Cliff

Stitch:
Cliff,

Just to update for any others reading this.  I'm sending it in to Cliff to have the airhorn checked out and repaired however he thinks necessary.

I think I did a pretty good job on everything else given that this was my first time rebuilding a carb.  Now that my work will be in the master's hands, I'm anxious to see if he finds any problems with my rebuild. 

I also wanted to add that I was skimming through the book and just happened to see that there was a tip about the dowel pins breaking off on the main body like mine did.  I didn't remember this tip until I read back through and saw it applied to me now.  But for anyone else reading this, page 81 tells you how to line up the body properly without the dowel pins.  Thanks to Cliff for that one!

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