General Category > Quadrajet Carb Talk and Tips

cam selection

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77cruiser:
How far are your pistons down in the hole? If it hasn't been decked they are usually .02-.025 down. Felpro makes a .015 gasket I think the part number is 1094.

Cliff Ruggles:
If the intake open point checked right on the money then the cam is installed correctly.....Cliff

tayto:

--- Quote from: 77cruiser on February 14, 2019, 08:47:13 AM ---How far are your pistons down in the hole? If it hasn't been decked they are usually .02-.025 down. Felpro makes a .015 gasket I think the part number is 1094.

--- End quote ---
block has been decked. pistons are .0125" to .0165" in the hole. i am going to bite the bullet and buy the Cometic gaskets as I don't want to tear down the block again. with .023" thick gaskets that will put my quench in the .035 to .040". i am not comfortable going under .030" quench with .015" gaskets.


--- Quote from: Cliff Ruggles on February 15, 2019, 02:33:47 AM ---If the intake open point checked right on the money then the cam is installed correctly.....Cliff

--- End quote ---
I guess it's right on the money then, thanks Cliff!

Cliff Ruggles:
The ICL method can be confusing and difficult to obtain good results especially if you are going back and forth with the crank instead of in one direction only.

As many engines as I've done over the years I just check the intake open point of the #1 intake lobe and leave it alone if it's at or close to where it needs to be.

I do NOT use double roller or multiple keyway timing sets, only factory link belt type and source out the 3/4" wide sets for my engine builds.  This makes moving the cam around a little more difficult, but well worth the effort, IMHO.

EVERYONE out there since WAY back in the 1970's when I got into this hobby runs right out and buys a "double roller" timing set like it's some sort of upgrade.  Most are just OK some are a little better and some are just plain JUNK.  The ones that fall into the decent category will have billet sprockets, seamless full roller chains and multiple keyways to move the cam around.  I still woln't use them here in my own engines.

One of my mentors ran a very successful Stock Eliminator Camaro and told me decades ago that the factory timing sets and much stronger than the roller variety, and they have constant tooth contact, absorb some harmonics, and will last the life of the engine.

So jump ahead to 2000 when I built my first 455.  The company I sourced all the parts from highly recommended that I purchase a 9 keyway Rollmaster timing set, so I went off course from what I typically do and bought one.  It did fine for a few years but I was driving the car almost every day and racing it as often as I could get it to the track. 

I was racing in Northern Ohio one evening and the car started to slow down, WAY down, but oil pressure was fine, fuel pressure was fine, no internal noises, etc.  I put the car on the trailer and pulled the engine over the weekend.  Figured I freshen it up and restore power.  Turns out the ONLY thing wrong with it was that the very expensive double roller seamless timing chain had failed.  It was so loose you could just about walk it right off the gears!

I replaced it with a Melling 3/4" wide set and the engine was fine till I replaced it in 2009.  The new engine has a Melling timing set in it and just happened to have the water pump/timing cover off recently to repair a coolant leak and the timing set looked perfect........FWIW......Cliff

tayto:
Cliff, ended up selling TPI cam/rockers to a friend that needed them for his TBI truck. I found a replacement cam from Howards Cams, it has 10* more duration than the TPI cam (202/207) as you recommended previously... It also has a fuel pump lobe because I am not running a e-pump.

Specs:
266/270 @ .006"
213/217 @ .050"
.485"/.495" lift w/ 1.5 rocker

I can get the cam either 112* or 114* LSA? What would be best for me? My truck will be used for hauling/towing. believe my transmission guy recommended/sold me a 1800 stall converter for what I was doing.

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