The dreaded reman

[matt68]

I have a 17057253 that I was going to rebuild but not so sure now after discovering it has been remanufactured at some point.  Not sure the base plate and air horn match the float bowl.
The air horn casting number is 17053731 and the base plate casting number is 7041455.
Looks like cheap parts inside, no numbers on the jets or rods, lead plugs in the bypass holes, etc. Anything else I should look out for?

[matt68]

Any info at all would be appreciated. Thanks.

[StillLearning]

After messing around with a few remans, including a couple of the "name brands", I would just check ebay, craigslist, and local yards and swap meets to find a rebuildable, unmolested core. You will be headaches and dollars ahead. Use Cliff's parts and expertise when you have questions. If you can, find a later 70's early 80's core as they are very adjustable to your engine's requirements. Good Luck!

[Cliff Ruggles]

I do not like working on them here, and do this for a living.  Doesn't mean you can't get one to work, but the quality control these days on them is pathetic, and they can be problematic and labor intensive.

About half show up with no fuel inlet seat threads, so you're dead in the water right out of the gate.

They also "butcher" them up, miss-match parts, and subject them to some sort of acid-bath cleaning process that leaves the castings "soft".

WAY better to just get an unmolested core right to start with........Cliff

[matt68]

Thanks for the replies. Looks like the one I have was rebuilt a long time ago.
Other than the plugged idle air by passes, nothing looks too butchered.
Inlet threads are good. The castings look like they match up other than the part numbers,
they are kind of rough though. Looks like they were sand blasted.
I am sure I will have other questions as I get deeper into it.

Thanks,
Matt

[Cliff Ruggles]

Done long ago helps.  In the past 15 years or so most are PATHETIC and not worth putting a lot of time into.

They do drill out idle bleed holes, DCR's, and HUGE idle tubes, plus many will have driven in MAB's much smaller than stock to establish a "generic" calibration as they don't stock many parts and basically they are all a "one size fits all" deal.

Not trying to paint a big black cloud over it, just make sure than the castings are sound, plating on the metal parts so it's not a big ball of rust in 6 months, and great attention to detail with good parts used to rebuild it.

I can supply the parts, and help out with sizing of the air bleeds, tuning, setting it up for the application, etc.......Cliff

[matt68]

Thanks Cliff. The castings seem ok.
I punched out the bypass plugs.
MABs look stock, DCR's look stock also.
Have not removed the idle tubes yet.
Will do some measuring and see what it has.

[matt68]

   Did some measuring and most of it seems reasonable other than the main air bleeds and pump discharge ports.
   The main air bleeds next to the nozzles are .125.
   The pump discharge ports are .063.
Guessing I am going to have to put some restriction in.

The other specifics are:
   Idle tubes .031
   Down channels .045
   Upper idle air bleeds .062
   Lower idle air bleeds .066

[77cruiser]

Did you go all the way in for the discharge nozzles? The outer hole is big all the way in should be smaller. Like .025 ish.

[matt68]

Not in far enough. I was measuring the big outer hole. Thanks.