Quadrajet Problem Solving > Diagnose a Quadrajet carburetor problem
Bog From Dead Stop
BanditRich:
Cliff - what Kenth said - "I would make sure the secondary throttle blade shaft lockout lever is removed from behind the choke.
If the choke gets cooled and not are fully open this will stop WOT maneuvers. " -
Should I get the electric choke working correctly before I go adjusting the secondary air valve? It isn't having any problems with WOT from 20 mph & above; it's just not launching the way I know it should be.
BanditRich:
The electric choke is now working. When I get the chance to do some WOT tests I will let you know how it goes.
BanditRich:
Well yesterday when I started it up to go to a cruise night I noticed it wasn't idling as high as it was the day before when the electric choke worked like it's supposed to. Saturday as the car was running getting up to operating temp it was idling at 1000 rpm and when I tapped the gas it dropped down to around 650. Yesterday it was idling at around 750 and when it reached operating temp & I tapped the gas it didn't drop down at all.
Today I started it up and when it reached operating temp it was idling at 1000 which I thought was encouraging because that's where it was at when the electric choke worked properly Saturday. When I tapped the gas it only dropped to about 900 rpms. I took it for a ride around the block and when I put it in park it was idling around 650. In drive it is always running around 450 - 475 rpms unless my foot is on the gas. I'm thinking possibly the relay fuse needs to be replaced? Exactly where is it located?
As far as the car's acceleration goes I had put the secondary air valve spring at 3/4 turn as you suggested and it made the car slower. So I put it at 1/2 turn and it's a lot better but I'm thinking of trying it at 1/4 turn. The only thing that's holding me back from trying it is it was a PITA adjusting it the 2 times I did. First I had tried using a single Allen wrench - the one that looks like an L- and the screw wouldn't loosen. I had to use an Allen wrench set and make sure not only was I holding wrench perfectly straight but I also had to be using upward pressure against the bottom of the wrench set to get the screw to loosen; and do the same thing to tighten it back up.
I feel the acceleration could be even better than it is right now but the effort to achieve it is holding me back. Is there a special tool to make it an easier proposition to adjust the secondary valve spring?
Cliff Ruggles:
First thing to do is to verify that when fully warmed up the fast idle cam is all the way down.
At that point it's not possible for the choke to cause this idle all over the place when warmed up.
This assumes all those parts and correctly installed, well lubricated and moving freely.
If you still see RPM's varying at idle speed I'd look at other things like the timing not being back to the base setting (weights sticking/springs too light).
Also check the throttle plates to make sure they aren't sticking in the bores.......Cliff
BanditRich:
Will do Cliff at some point this weekend.
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