Quadrajet Problem Solving > Diagnose a Quadrajet carburetor problem
Heavier throttle (mostly) issues
MP81:
Apparently I missed the paragraph stating that the later swaged-in plugs are much less likely to leak. Perhaps that is why I saw no bubbles - it may have been done as preventative, or by someone under the impression they'll leak like the earlier ones.
Maybe I am actually good to go? I see no discoloration that would, in my mind, present itself as a leak over time. Usually if it's been a good few days, the car takes a while to start, but if it's been like a day or two, it normally starts right up.
MP81:
Sorry for the rapid fire in the last few posts - just was trying to get my thoughts down before we took the dog to the vet and I forgot. ;D
tayto:
have you verified with soapy water and air compressor that the plugs are not leaking? the last 3 quadrajets i have had at least 1 well plug that leaked. these are the newer swaged style that "rarely leak". i grind/file the top of the well plug flat so the swaged portion is gone. i then use a #8 drywall screw to extract the well plug. carefully drill an appropriate sized hole, screw in the drywall screw then using a pair of side cutters i "pop" the well plug out. you can purchase a repair kit from cliff, i personally use a 7/16 fine bottoming tap and then make my own plugs out of bolts. cliff recommends marine-tex, I use it at work occasionally so this is what I use. many years ago i had a gas tank that had been welded, we smeared jb weld on it as leak insurance. a year later it had softened and had a noticeable wet spot. others have had good luck with it, i personally have not used it since (about 10 years ago).
https://cliffshighperformance.com/simplemachinesforum/index.php/topic,4149.0.html
MP81:
Yes, I put soapy water on them, and used a rubber tip on the blow gun (I did this a few times, since I felt like I wasn't doing it right because it wasn't leaking - then I read Cliff's note in the book that these don't usually leak).
I didn't block the other passages where air was coming out, but even still, I would have seen something happening around the plugs. There also is no visual indicator of a gasoline leak out of any of them, like there should be if there was a leak over time - it should eventually "stain" the casting.
The plug above the lean mix solenoid adjustment screw has been removed, so I'm thinking that the gasoline in the bowl likely evaporates from there, since that effectively opens the fuel bowl up to the atmosphere.
MP81:
So, plugs aside, let me try and sum up the remaining questions (and or revisions to said questions) I have from my gigantic mess of posts on the last page. ;D
1. I found the needle still stuck to the old float via a clip. I believe I have read this clip is not necessary (I see the new one does not have one), which makes sense to be, but I figure I'd be sure, as I can probably put the old one on the new one if it's of any help to the carb.
2. The needle seat in the kit looks to have no slots near the threaded base, whereas the one I removed from the carb does. What is the purpose of those slots in the old one - was that the incorrect one that someone put into this carb in the first place?
3. The secondary cam - this looks to go up top in the air horn? The screws I imagine are for the secondary air plates? Remove those, remove the shaft and install the new cam/spring?
4. Because I am (probably) an idiot, I did not count the number of turns of the lean mix screw before I removed it. I can see a distinct change in color that shows me, roughly, how far down it was originally, so that helps, but is there a good way to set that? The plug in the air horn above is removed, so I should be able to adjust it, on car, I believe - I may have to make a tool, though (I bought a flexible Lisle one for the lower two screws, if needed - rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it). This may lead into the next question...
5. Dwell meter - do I need one?
Hopefully less chaotic of a (long) list than my 453,000 posts before.
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