Quadrajet Problem Solving > Diagnose a Quadrajet carburetor problem

Heavier throttle (mostly) issues

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tayto:
we want to know what the play is perpendicular to the throttle body, side to side is not a concern.

MP81:
Well shoot, I hooked in those holes...

No perpendicular play, only side to side.

All back together aside from the fuel inlet:


Much cleaner:


All complete:





New versus old gasket - I'm not sure why they aren't the same:


Carb back on the car - looks a bit cleaner than it did before:


Too bad after all this work, the car idles richer than shoot, and is pretty pissed off - I have succeeded in essentially making my vehicle worse.

I tried for a couple hours to see if I could mess with it, but it's dark out, I can't seem to get any dwell reading off the green diagnostic connector, and it's still stupidly rich. It also tried to restart once on the first shut down, so, that's a great sign.

Won't be taking the car to dyno day tomorrow, so, yep, not a good night for me.  :(

Going to need a lot of help trying to figure out how on earth to get this car running properly, it seems.

tayto:
did you accurately set float height or install "as is"? have you verified base timing? did you change how clip is hooked onto float? the needle can "hang up" if not in correct position. I don't know much about CCC carbs but i know there are many adjustments that must be set to correctly run.

Cliff Ruggles:
Is it flooding?

Did you install new "O" rings on the upper idle airbleed adjusting screw?

Did you remove and clean or at least run something thru the idle tubes to verify they aren't plugged up?

MP81:
So, I didn't set float height (I don't think it was mentioned in the book too much - just said that it should be just above the upper surface of the casting, which it is) but it doesn't appear the be overflowing. I did, unfortunately, clip that clip into one of the holes, rather than over the edge, as I had it back together before I saw that.

Is there a way I can tell if it's flooding the carb?

I did not install new O rings on the upper idle airbleed screw, but I also did not remove it.

I ran solder wire that fit perfectly through the idle tubes to verify they were clean (solder wire came out the bottom, so they made it all the way through).

For reference, I set the lean mix screw to 3.5 turns backed out from bottomed. It looks like the rich mix is pre-set and cannot be adjusted (though that plug is also gone). I had found a broken small screwdriver in my yard last year and put it in my toolbench (before I knew it was actually missing the end). I almost tossed it this year but thought "no, this might be useful somehow" - turns out it is, I ground a slot in it that fits around the tiny double-D on the LMS and the RMS and fits down those bores. LMS should be good, but at least I can tweak if needed - though it doesn't seem like I need it to change.

Also worth mentioning - and likely not helping one bit - it sure sounds like I have a colossal vacuum leak - may have just been the idle misbehaving anyway, because it was not being consistent at all - but it sounded like when I sprayed carb cleaner near the front of the carb-to-intake gasket, the idle went up. But again, that may be a function of the idle being all over the place.

Something else that might direct our thoughts to a potential culprit: If I rev it, the revs hang and very slowly come down - did it in the engine bay to observe the throttle shaft behavior - it is snapping back, completely closed, as intended...but something else is keeping revs up.

Perhaps that's part (or all) of the issue. Could be so much extra air coming in, the O2 is seeing it, trying to compensate by fattening it up a whole lot. When I went to shut it down the first time, it tried to stay running for about a second.

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