General Category > Quadrajet Carb Talk and Tips
Cadillac carb on stock 305
Bludacious:
Hi all, long time reader & first time poster here. When I removed the CCC stuff from my 305 I ran a Qjet I got off Craigslist for $20 for a while. The guy who sold the pair to me said the one I used came off his G30 van with a 350. After a while something felt a bit off and I ran the casting # (17057231) and turns out it's a 77 Cadillac carb, it also has the 800CFM bulge in the main venturi. Best I can figure whoever remanned it (sticker on the side) frankencarb'd it to run a small block. I want to know if there's any issue to running this carb on my small block and what the specs are for the jets/rods/idle downtubes.
The only real problem I ever had with it was that I could never get it to idle as low as it should when it was warm so it loved to diesel, but I want to fix that and put it back because it gave way better throttle snap and a bit better fuel economy than the carb I have on it now.
Currently it's got either 42K or 43K primary rods (Measured with calipers), stainless CH secondary rods, secondary hanger J, primary jets are somewhere between .070 and .076, I'm missing bits from my numbered set so a #50 is the closest I got. The upper side of the idle tubes are .052 and the lower side was too small to check with a normal numbered drill, I think it's probably about .035-.039.
lightning boy:
That was a good carb until it was "remanufactured". Do yourself a favor and use it for a parts carb.
Go find another core, as it will never be right. Post your new core carb # here and someone will help with your setup, or call Cliff's shop and order the parts from him and he will include the specs with the kit.
Good Luck.
Kenth:
Standard jets for this unit is #70, 48P pri rods and DS secondary rods.
42K-43K pri rods with #70 jets and CH sec rods may be fine for your 305, if main air bleeds are untouched.
If not already drilled, i would check for at least .052" down channels and .085"-.090" outlet holes at idle needles to have some control of the idle mixture.
Bludacious:
While I appreciate the advice lightning, I do have another core to use! Thing is, it's currently bolted onto previously mentioned daily commuter vehicle. This one's gotta be together first before I can go inside the one on the car now (sadly also a reman, but theoretically it should be from the right displacement motor or at least jetted as such). It actually ran quite well in the time I did use it and it didn't fowl/burn anything so I figure I'm not too far away from where I want to be with it.
Kenth, Should I be able to read the code somewhere on the primary rods? The current set have a small section that's kind of blackened, I think it's where they rubbed against the plastic float/rod retaining insert thingy. So either the code's under that area or it's been worn off completely.
For the idle downtube, should that diameter be the size of the upper bore of the tube, or should the smaller diameter 'step' at the bottom be drilled to this size? They also don't seem to have been drilled or modified at all.
And the idle air outlets - Is there any special technique to drilling them to make sure the screws 'seat' properly, or can I just stick a drill through from outside and take it slow & steady?? And if the air bleeds are smaller than .085", what exactly does enlarging them accomplish for idle adjustability vs. just turning the screws out further to let more mixture through?
davel:
--- Quote from: Bludacious on November 26, 2019, 05:01:50 PM ---Should I be able to read the code somewhere on the primary rods? The current set have a small section that's kind of blackened, I think it's where they rubbed against the plastic float/rod retaining insert thingy. So either the code's under that area or it's been worn off completely.
--- End quote ---
The code on the primary rods is very small. To read it requires a magnifying glass or very sharp digital photo enlarged. In this photo the code is stamped toward the bottom of my ring finger.
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