General Category > Quadrajet Carb Talk and Tips
Carb cleaning
Burd:
My mechanic bought me the gallon of carb dip, it comes with a basket inside it to,dip your parts. It is not as potent as the stuff from years ago.
texczech:
"Regular" auto carburetors, not doing anything that has to look original. GM & Ford, Holleys, & the AFB style carbs ,Edelbrock I think. Some larger gasoline big trucks in a few feedlots.
old cars:
--- Quote from: texczech on January 20, 2022, 05:13:12 AM ---How much of each chemical do you use to a gallon more or less? How I tell if the carburetor is chromate or zinc "plated"? If it is plated, is the plating on the outside only? Does removing this plating hurt anything or cosmetic? Would like to know more about the effects of removing this plating and how to tell if the carb has it! Thanks for the response!
--- End quote ---
Evergreen A-44 4-8 oz per gallon of water. SC-80 4-8 oz per gallon of water
The attached picture of a Quadrajet carb shows chromate on the main body/including inside and zinc plus chromate on the linkage/steel parts. These are anti rust/oxidation coatings. Older Holley carbs are similar. Carter AFB carbs were bare aluminum body with linkage/steel parts zinc plus chromate. Zinc coating is like a shiny bolt you get at hardware store, almost chrome looking.
Does removing this plating hurt anything or cosmetic? You will have to decide that, although some of the old carb cleaning/dip solutions were toxic and did remove plating.
The cleaners I mentioned are biodegradable.
Would like to know more about the effects of removing this plating and how to tell if the carb has it!
Obviously removing these platings would have an effect since they are anti corrosion coatings. Sometimes this can't be avoided. Sometimes it has already been depleted. Inspect and research.
Don't know if I have explained this very well.
Cliff Ruggles:
Buying any type of carb "dip" these days is a complete waste of time/funds. The EPA killed off the good products decades ago. You are basically buying water with a few useless chemicals in it.
I like and prefer a heated ultrasonic cleaner, easy on the castings and the folks using it. Breathing in chemicals from any type of carb cleaner or chemical dip just isn't a good idea anyhow.
Hot water with a little degreaser in it and a stiff paint brush will remove any heavy residue. For oxidation and deep stains you will need to bead or media blast. At that point you've removed all the protective coating so it should be replaced.....IMHO.
I am NOT doing any more restoration or plating work here, and not taking in any rebuilds at this time. Since I'm semi-retired I'm still taking in some work here and there. Most of it is going back thru carburetors that were just "rebuilt" or "restored". Nice clean work and filled with low quality/incorrect parts so they never had a chance to work right from the moment they were put in service.
I tell folks all the time that those "blue" pump seals showing up in rebuild kits and pumps from the main suppliers are JUNK, but it goes on deaf ears. The life expectancy for those seals is hours to a few months when they come in contact with ethanol. The pumps in my kits do NOT have the same seal on them and lifetime warranty if anyone reading this wants to upgrade and sleep better at night.......FWIW......Cliff
old cars:
Her is a suggestion I have seen for converting your parts cleaner from chemical solvent to something more safer. The heater will heat to about 100 degrees. I have not tried this myself.
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