Author Topic: Deleted heat stove pipe?  (Read 5517 times)

Offline Toronado

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Deleted heat stove pipe?
« on: March 19, 2011, 12:57:33 AM »
So I removed my single snorkel air cleaner few months ago
now ruff running when engine is cold.

It now is experiencing poor fuel vaporization because (when cold)
lack of help from warm air. Is there a way to fix this without going back to stock???
I have seen and
heard many many old cars with just a carb a
14 inch air cleaner run great when cold, so what do they have that I'm missing
Even my Elcamino ran fine with no heated air to carb.

How do i increase my fuel vaporization when my engine is cold?
Without installing a heated air source to the air
cleaner.

Thanks for help : )  :)

Offline omaha

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Re: Deleted heat stove pipe?
« Reply #1 on: March 19, 2011, 01:17:16 AM »
is the heat riser valve still functioning?   sometimes they get stuck or the passages get clogged.
 Other than that, I dont know. (clogged passages are hard to unclog) OR, just wait til the motor warms up a bit, (PITA I know).

Offline Toronado

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Re: Deleted heat stove pipe?
« Reply #2 on: March 19, 2011, 01:35:59 AM »
I will have to check the heat riser valve, Im not sure?
I definitely have to really warm it up prior to driving,
so the engines running smooth.  How does one unclog a heat riser,
because now your the second person to say this could be the culprit?
Thanks

Offline Toronado

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Re: Deleted heat stove pipe?
« Reply #3 on: March 19, 2011, 02:40:37 AM »
The heat riser valve i believe was
attached to the old air cleaner right? I don't have it any
more. 1970 Toronado

Offline Toronado

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Re: Deleted heat stove pipe?
« Reply #4 on: March 19, 2011, 03:04:12 AM »
if I do have one in my RH exhaust manifold than its
definitely stuck open, & guess got
to cut it out than weld new flap in WOW that a PAIN  >:(.
Oh well time to pull of my exhaust ( I replaced bolts but didn't remove)
manifold and look? maybe i can just really lube it and let it sit.
LOL

Offline omaha

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Re: Deleted heat stove pipe?
« Reply #5 on: March 20, 2011, 01:33:45 AM »
    Actually, there was some lubricant that used to be sold at mopar dealerships that was made specifically for the heat riser valve (in the exheust manifold).  This was some of the best penetrating lube that I have ever used. The ptoblem is that I dont know if it is still sold anymore. Maybe call a dealership and see if they still sell the stuff.    Might be worth a shot.

Offline Toronado

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Re: Deleted heat stove pipe?
« Reply #6 on: March 21, 2011, 01:06:47 AM »
My Toronado book and Google show
nothing on a heat riser valve for my car, but
there on most other models so I assume the car had one before my ownership.

Its is definitely the cause of under powered bad combustion
when the engine is cold, & also the reason why it takes so long
to warm the dam car up!

Looks like I need to install one but can I just put the H.R.V. on
my exhaust?, or is there other things i need to check that
work with the heat riser valve system?

thank for all the help.
« Last Edit: March 21, 2011, 01:14:21 AM by Toronado »

Offline Schurkey

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Re: Deleted heat stove pipe?
« Reply #7 on: March 21, 2011, 10:36:18 AM »
The FIRST thing you do is determine if the choke is working properly, including proper adjustment of the choke pulloff(s).

My '66 Toro has a heat riser valve on the left exhaust manifold.  While I don't know for sure, I'd expect that all '66--78 Toros use the same heat riser position and perhaps the same manifold.  The valve is gravity operated, there is a counterweight on the valve that is lifted by a bimetal spring.  When the manifold/heat riser valve gets hot, the spring relaxes and the valve opens.

Mopar, GM, and Ford (probably AMC also) all offered aerosol heat riser penetrant lube.  It has a characteristic smell--very pungent.  The last time I bought some, it was in an AC Delco-branded can.  Different label, same smell.  I think it was this stuff:

Part X88A
12302866
Super Penetrant (12 oz.)

    * Penetrates rusted, corroded metal-to-metal seizures
    * Lubricates for easier disassembly and reassembly
    * Is excellent for freeing and maintaining the efficient operation of heat riser valves
    * Effectively removes most lead, lead oxide and rust deposits
    * Safe, nonflammable, fast-acting foamy spray clings to parts to penetrate and work




There is an exhaust passage that crosses the intake manifold from side-to-side under the carburetor plenum; it's fairly common for that to plug with carbon.  Remove the manifold and chisel the carbon out.  Even without a heat riser valve, this passage will provide some heat to the manifold to assist in vaporizing the fuel.  If the heat riser valve works properly, you won't be able to keep paint on the exhaust crossover section of the intake manifold.  It will be SCREAMING hot and even high-temperature engine paint will burn off.

Just for giggles...WHY did you disable the heated air intake section of your air cleaner?
« Last Edit: March 21, 2011, 10:40:39 AM by Schurkey »
Demand compensation from Communist China for the damage done by the Virus Originating in the Wuhan Lab, released (intentionally or negligently) into the world in 2019 (VOWL-19).  Trillions of dollars, plus direct compensation to individuals for medical bills, and "wrongful death" settlements.

Offline Schurkey

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Re: Deleted heat stove pipe?
« Reply #8 on: March 21, 2011, 10:38:38 AM »
duplicate post--sorry.
Demand compensation from Communist China for the damage done by the Virus Originating in the Wuhan Lab, released (intentionally or negligently) into the world in 2019 (VOWL-19).  Trillions of dollars, plus direct compensation to individuals for medical bills, and "wrongful death" settlements.

Offline Toronado

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Re: Deleted heat stove pipe?
« Reply #9 on: March 21, 2011, 03:40:59 PM »
Hmmm,
 I cant see my heat riser valve, how do i check it?
Is it inside the exhaust manifold and no exterior parts?
I just replaced the donuts on my dual exhaust,
didnt see a HRV any were?

I just painted my intake manifold with
500 degree paint, the middle runners of the intake
burned the paint off, and run hotter than the rest of the intake.
It makes it seem the passage is not clogged, I have been
using MMO for a while in gas and oil-it cleans carbon out.

The original snorkels dont flow well, they flow a max of
550 cfm thats max on a 750 cfm carb. The open element
works much better when the engines finally warms up,
it responds faster, and reaches higher rpm's faster,
and the reduced restriction to intake allows secondaries to stay open longer at high rpm's
be the increased cfm's. I have done it on several cars and basically
it sounds more aggressive and goes faster, no its not my ear I race cars & win!

I really appreciate any insight and open to any ideas, my goal
is street friendly car that can open up really well when need no lag
through a tiny snorkel, hot or cold air restriction suffocates an engine,
mine as well run a single exhaust LOL.

Offline Toronado

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Re: Deleted heat stove pipe?
« Reply #10 on: March 21, 2011, 03:45:50 PM »
Im also currently buying a dual snorkel,
and i kept my heat shield from my exhaust,
so I plan on hooking that up so it can flow good
and get the heat when needed, but that HRV is
my current project focus. Shoot I still have my condenser and all the air conditioner stuff
that was removed to reduce parasitic friction loss, about 20hp.
I soon will take it to are local SIR track to get numbers,
were a dyno when ya need one.

Offline Toronado

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Re: Deleted heat stove pipe?
« Reply #11 on: March 24, 2011, 08:53:56 PM »
Update:

Well it was not the heat stove pipe, or the OEM snorkel that caused the
bad running engine.

It was some idiot removed the heat riser valve on my exhaust, it
may have been stuck so they unfortunately removed it.

So you can run an open element air filter with no problems if your heat riser valve
is first on your car and working. LOL

Looks like Im buying a new heat riser valve, now all most impossible to find for Toro's.

Thanks for every ones help..