General Category > Quadrajet Carb Talk and Tips

Deleted heat stove pipe?

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omaha:
    Actually, there was some lubricant that used to be sold at mopar dealerships that was made specifically for the heat riser valve (in the exheust manifold).  This was some of the best penetrating lube that I have ever used. The ptoblem is that I dont know if it is still sold anymore. Maybe call a dealership and see if they still sell the stuff.    Might be worth a shot.

Toronado:
My Toronado book and Google show
nothing on a heat riser valve for my car, but
there on most other models so I assume the car had one before my ownership.

Its is definitely the cause of under powered bad combustion
when the engine is cold, & also the reason why it takes so long
to warm the dam car up!

Looks like I need to install one but can I just put the H.R.V. on
my exhaust?, or is there other things i need to check that
work with the heat riser valve system?

thank for all the help.

Schurkey:
The FIRST thing you do is determine if the choke is working properly, including proper adjustment of the choke pulloff(s).

My '66 Toro has a heat riser valve on the left exhaust manifold.  While I don't know for sure, I'd expect that all '66--78 Toros use the same heat riser position and perhaps the same manifold.  The valve is gravity operated, there is a counterweight on the valve that is lifted by a bimetal spring.  When the manifold/heat riser valve gets hot, the spring relaxes and the valve opens.

Mopar, GM, and Ford (probably AMC also) all offered aerosol heat riser penetrant lube.  It has a characteristic smell--very pungent.  The last time I bought some, it was in an AC Delco-branded can.  Different label, same smell.  I think it was this stuff:

Part X88A
12302866
Super Penetrant (12 oz.)

    * Penetrates rusted, corroded metal-to-metal seizures
    * Lubricates for easier disassembly and reassembly
    * Is excellent for freeing and maintaining the efficient operation of heat riser valves
    * Effectively removes most lead, lead oxide and rust deposits
    * Safe, nonflammable, fast-acting foamy spray clings to parts to penetrate and work




There is an exhaust passage that crosses the intake manifold from side-to-side under the carburetor plenum; it's fairly common for that to plug with carbon.  Remove the manifold and chisel the carbon out.  Even without a heat riser valve, this passage will provide some heat to the manifold to assist in vaporizing the fuel.  If the heat riser valve works properly, you won't be able to keep paint on the exhaust crossover section of the intake manifold.  It will be SCREAMING hot and even high-temperature engine paint will burn off.

Just for giggles...WHY did you disable the heated air intake section of your air cleaner?

Schurkey:
duplicate post--sorry.

Toronado:
Hmmm,
 I cant see my heat riser valve, how do i check it?
Is it inside the exhaust manifold and no exterior parts?
I just replaced the donuts on my dual exhaust,
didnt see a HRV any were?

I just painted my intake manifold with
500 degree paint, the middle runners of the intake
burned the paint off, and run hotter than the rest of the intake.
It makes it seem the passage is not clogged, I have been
using MMO for a while in gas and oil-it cleans carbon out.

The original snorkels dont flow well, they flow a max of
550 cfm thats max on a 750 cfm carb. The open element
works much better when the engines finally warms up,
it responds faster, and reaches higher rpm's faster,
and the reduced restriction to intake allows secondaries to stay open longer at high rpm's
be the increased cfm's. I have done it on several cars and basically
it sounds more aggressive and goes faster, no its not my ear I race cars & win!

I really appreciate any insight and open to any ideas, my goal
is street friendly car that can open up really well when need no lag
through a tiny snorkel, hot or cold air restriction suffocates an engine,
mine as well run a single exhaust LOL.

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