Cliff's Quadrajet Parts and Rebuild Kits

  Just a quick question, i just relocated the upper idle air bleeds on my carburetor, but I was wondering, because of the new location and the different route that the air takes to get to the original bleed location, do you need to resize for any reason?

 The air now runs through the air horn to the gasket where it needs to do a small zigzag in order to continue on down to the channel restriction, whereas before the air entered just above the restriction.
 However, because of the new location (on the top of the horn basically), there should be less of a flow hindrance as the air is coming at it straight-on, a sort of ram effect so to speak. The original bleed location being next to the venturi and aiming slightly downward, does not get any "ram effect".
 So do the two issues cancel each other out and there's nothing to worry about, or are these something to be concerned about? Just curious.

 Rick

I don’t think the engine is under any sort of load. Here’s another carb about a day later. It too was for a Pontiac https://youtube.com/shorts/Ugl6HN0t3A8?si=HOU7m8e1-4aUKyKO

That's what I do, & if you drop it carb has to come off.

Yea then you have to go up in size, 8-32 works good for DCR & 10-32 if you want to do idle tubes.
If you could find slotted brass set screws you could do it.

  Thanks Novadude.


 Another question, if you're changing a set screw in the air horn to calibrate and the carb is still on your engine, how can you keep the set screw from falling into the carb? Do you guys use a bit of grease on the end of the allen wrench, or some other method? What do you recommend?

 I have to use an over the fender creeper in order to reach the carburetor on my truck, one, because it sits high, and two, because my poor old titanium reinforced spine can't handle climbing into the engine bay anymore.