Recent Posts

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91
You´ll have to know your carb application numbers were use 1980-84, the first year may not have the extra screws but the later did.
This has nothing to do with how the carburetor performs.

FWIW
92
Quadrajet Carb Talk and Tips / Re: Repairing a main well plug leak
« Last post by Kenth on January 30, 2025, 11:12:14 AM »
Thread the holes, 1968 and earlier 1/2" UNF, and cut a screw or rod and use with some thread sealant and you´ll have a permanent fix.
It´s very rare to find 1969 or later Qjets leaking but if the plugs are removed for whatever reason you may thread 7/16" UNF for plugs.
I would avoid the band aid O-ring kits like the plague.
93
Quadrajet Carb Talk and Tips / Re: Orifice gauges, what do you recommend?
« Last post by Kenth on January 30, 2025, 11:04:45 AM »
pin gage set .011"-.060" are available on ebay. You´ll find the micro drillbits there too.
94
Quadrajet Carb Talk and Tips / Re: Is a Torx head Quadrajet screw kit available anywhere?
« Last post by GSP7 on January 30, 2025, 11:00:04 AM »
Maybe Cliff has some torx, the picture on his parts site looks like slotted.

That brings up another interesting thing....

My 17080213 has torx screws, but doesnt have the extra screws, air horn/main body

My 17080513 does have the extra 4 front screws , air horn to main body-(Original carb on my 1981 chevy k20 Silverado truck)

Books says "In the early 1980s additional screws were added....
95
Quadrajet Carb Talk and Tips / Re: Removing the idle down channel restrictions
« Last post by Kenth on January 30, 2025, 10:55:46 AM »
After removing the original restrictor you may thread the hole with a 6-32 tap and installed a short brass set screw and drill the size you need.

HTH
96
Quadrajet Carb Talk and Tips / Re: Secondary actuation lever on primary shaft
« Last post by Pav8427 on January 30, 2025, 10:34:40 AM »
Never noticed this before. I too would be interested in reasons why they did this and how it may apply to possible set up for certain applications.
Would guess these are a swappable part if one so desired.
97
Quadrajet Carb Talk and Tips / Repairing a main well plug leak
« Last post by Cadman-iac on January 30, 2025, 09:59:21 AM »
  I've been rebuilding carbs since 1980, and you used to be able to get a kit from Napa for these that had a pair of new plugs with an O-ring under the lip as well as the foam gasket that would sit between the body and throttle plate, (which really didn't do anything but soak up fuel if it leaked), it was Echlin part number 2-85. But I just recently went in to Napa to get some more, (it's been over 20 years since I last bought some) and they say it’s no longer available.
 Cliff, what do you recommend to use if a plug needs replaced/ repaired? Tapping the hole and using a pipe plug?
 I'm curious since I'm down to my last pair of reusable (used) plugs from Napa.
 I just installed a new set into a 17057512 and they began leaking within a week. I pulled them back out and found that the O-rings had cracked, either from age, or more likely from the fuel.
 I installed a new set of O-rings for the larger of the two fuel injection lines on a TBI system, which turned out to be exactly the same size, so they should last a while now.
 But what would you recommend to fix the well leakage problem?

  Rick
98
Quadrajet Carb Talk and Tips / Orifice gauges, what do you recommend?
« Last post by Cadman-iac on January 30, 2025, 09:28:31 AM »
  I would like to get a decent set of gauges/ tools for measuring the various orifices in the Quadrajet, what do you recommend to use?

 I've been using various kinds of tools and wire so far, but I'm afraid my accuracy is suspect.  I am using welding/ cutting tip cleaners that I've labeled with the sizes since they have 2 different diameters, but they are not close enough in size from one to the next. I also have a large set of transfer punches that start at about  .040" and go up in increments of a few thousandths each. But even with these it leaves a lot of guessing as to exact sizes.

 What is available for a decent price that would work for this?
 And where would I be able to get a good set of micro drill bits for doing this kind of stuff?

 Rick
99
  I was looking at Cliff's parts website last night and noticed that he has two different sets of screws available, depending on the carburetor design. I couldn't tell if they had the Torx heads or just the slotted ones, but I'm fairly certain that if you ordered the set for the newer design with more screws in the top you will get the Torx headed ones.

 I prefer those over the slotted or Phillips heads any day.

 Rick
100
Quadrajet Carb Talk and Tips / Removing the idle down channel restrictions
« Last post by Cadman-iac on January 30, 2025, 08:50:58 AM »
 I was curious to know how others were removing the restrictions without damage to either the body or the restriction.
 I've been using Cliff's method of using a screw and pliers to pull them out, but it doesn't work all the time. If the restriction is too tight in the body this only cuts the lip on the restriction without pulling it out.
 On some of my damaged carbs, (ones I bought that were previously damaged and only good for parts), I began to use a drill bit to slightly enlarge the opening to make sure the piece has as little resistance as possible. This works good, but I don't want to try it on a good carburetor body without knowing if enlarging the top of the passage on the down channel will affect the flow/calibration. 
 With the damaged cores I tried this on, I placed a gasket over it to check if it still covered the passage, and it does, so the only thing I can see that might be affected is the flow.

 The reason why I was doing this is to get the restrictors out to use in calibration of other carbs. You can always open up a restriction, but to make one smaller it's not so easy. Even driving in a plug to drill out to the size you want you have to get the original one out of the passage first.

  On one junk core instead of drilling the top of the down channel to remove the restrictors, I drilled through the restrictor using a bit the same size as the passage and went all the way through the bottom to see exactly where the passage would have come out if the factory had gone further instead of intersecting at an angle just above the bottom of the bowl body.  Then I tapped the hole with a 6-32 tap and installed a really short set screw to plug the new hole.
 The purpose being that if you are trying different diameter restrictors in your carburetor, this would allow you to remove the set screws (plugs) and run a rod up through the passage to pop the restrictors out without causing damage to them and then you can easily install a different set and reinstall the plugs on the bottom.
 This works great on the junk core, but I have yet to try it on a good carburetor. I don't know if this will change the flow characteristics through the bottom of the down channels or not.
  Any thoughts?

 Rick
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