Author Topic: Random 7041264 rebuild questions  (Read 1647 times)

Offline dataway

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Random 7041264 rebuild questions
« on: April 12, 2018, 11:18:01 AM »
A few questions:

1. Is it ok to smooth off the casting flash in the primary venturies? I see a slight ridge of casting flashing midway down the primaries.

2. What is the best way to remove original idle mixture screw limiter caps. They seem to be on there pretty good and I don't want to tweak the screws.

3. Is there a preferred lubricant for the throttle plate shafts.

4. Where/when/if I should use loc-tite on any fasteners, or never seize etc.

5. This carb has the metal vacuum diaphragm choke pull-off  ... it seems to be permanently mounted in the bracket. Is this replaced as one piece, or is the diaphragm in fact removable from the bracket?

6. So the primary metering rods just dangle down into the jets? Nothing to really keep them centered in the jet?

7. Is there a torque specification for the top screws that hold the carb together?

Thanks, I know, lots of questions :)

Offline Cliff Ruggles

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Re: Random 7041264 rebuild questions
« Reply #1 on: April 12, 2018, 07:46:54 PM »
I wouldn't worry with any casting flash.

The limiter caps can be difficult to remove without bending the screws, no real good method for this other than just being careful.

No lubricant is required, and if they are green that is a Teflon coating, most will be coated if made in the 1970's or later.

No Loctite needed on my fasteners, but we do use lock washers on all the main baseplate to main body and airhorn to main body fillister head screws.

The pull-off is removable but I would leave it in place if it passes a vacuum test.

The wire retainer for the metering rods keeps them pulled over against the jets so they don't "vibrate" and wear out quickly.

No real torque "spec", just use a good fitting screwdriver and tighten them down by hand. 

Adding lock washers to early models that didn't use them is a good idea.  We have black zinc coated screws and lock washers if you need any.

The important parts that get replaced in those older carburetors is the float, N/S assembly and accl pump and seal.  Our kits will come with upgraded components that will be fine in this new fuel, and our accl pump has custom seal on it plus a custom wound stainless steel spring under it, and chrome vanadium spring on it.....or basically much better than the stock springs and our pump is lifetime warranty......Cliff

Offline dataway

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Re: Random 7041264 rebuild questions
« Reply #2 on: April 12, 2018, 11:50:22 PM »
Thanks Cliff, answers all my questions.
Yep the shafts are green.
Will probably add the lock washers, noticed the original hardware was all barely hand tight, and showed no sign of ever being touched by a tool ... probably forty years of expanding and contracting on a shelf in someone's garage loosened them up. Only screws that were tight were the two, short counter sunk screws ... they appeared to a aluminum? Is that so if they fall into the carb they won't cause any damage?

Installing your kit now, everything fits perfect so far.

Offline Cliff Ruggles

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Re: Random 7041264 rebuild questions
« Reply #3 on: April 13, 2018, 02:53:07 AM »
The two flat head screws can't get past the booster rings unless it is a 1971 HO carb, but they need to be tight to keep them from backing out....Cliff

Offline dataway

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Re: Random 7041264 rebuild questions
« Reply #4 on: April 19, 2018, 12:42:52 AM »
Cliff, since the carb is NOS and in great shape there are some parts that I did not plan on replacing. Such as the Secondary Needle Cam that is rotated by the secondary air valves/flaps.

My question is, is the cam included in the SR kit a different profile than the OEM part on this 7041264 carb? Is the secondary air valve/flap spring a different strength/rate than the OEM part?

I'd rather not remove the air valve/flap shaft if I don't have to is the reason I ask. It's all in like new condition. But if these kits parts are substantially different, or recommended to install by you, then I will certainly use them.

You also sent me some "DA" secondary needles to replace the leaner OEM "BP" needles. I noticed the OEM needles had a slot cut in them down on the taper and the replacement needles didn't have these. What is the function of those slots in the OEM needles? And does it matter that the replacements don't have this.
Thanks,
John Branson

Offline Cliff Ruggles

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Re: Random 7041264 rebuild questions
« Reply #5 on: April 24, 2018, 02:08:16 AM »
Cam is same profile.

The DA rods have a much better profile than the OEM BP rods and the slot isn't required in them.....Cliff