I've lost count of how many times I went to test carbs that used CC rods in them and the engine "puked" all over itself going quickly to full throttle. A quick bend on the hanger with a pair of pliers to get them out of the jet holes and problem solved.
Instead of bending hangers or looking for higher ones I just replace them and all the issues go away with no other tuning needed.
This is also interesting Kenth and something you need to know. We were on the dyno with a 455 and making pulls on it. A/F was showing a tad lean with a set of CV rods so I tossed in a set of CC's. Going from .052" down to .030" should have fattened it up some correct?
Next pull it showed even leaner with the CC's in it! Those rods don't have nearly as smooth of a transition to the skinny tips as other rods and fat section right above the skinny tips, so unless you get them up pretty high you can actually go leaner even though they have really small tips.
I've repeated that testing several times and did some track testing with them as well. This was early in my learning curve and I decided to custom machine a complete set of rods from the same cores. I very carefully machined those rods from the same cores with the same tip length and included angle leading to the tips starting at .030" and going all the way to .060". Next time I went up on the dyno metering changes were spot on and very predictable.
I still have those custom machined rods today and use them when tuning at the track. I've also machined quite a few sets for dedicated drag racers who run in various classes, Pure Stock, FAST, SA and Super Stock. It eliminates the need to "juggle" hangers around with different profile and tip size secondary rods and makes things a LOT easier when you tune. Once you find a hanger that makes the grade for perfect transition you just change metering rods based on the weather, Density-Altitude, etc.......FWIW.....Cliff