Author Topic: air horn swap  (Read 2937 times)

Offline sweathogg

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air horn swap
« on: October 21, 2010, 09:36:20 AM »
Q-Jet # 17085213, on my 1985 Chev K20 Suburban, 700r4 Trans 4 wheel drive.  I have four (same number) of these Q-jet carbs.  One that was the original factory installed, and three that I have acquired as replacement(s) or for parts. 

The original carb has been rebuilt, bushings etc, but not with your kit.  It performs pretty well.  No stalling on abrupt stopp, or hesitation on acceleration, brass float set to factory specs (0.406”).  Carb was checked for sealing as per your book.  I plan to install one of your kits with the better gaskets and inlet/needle, but have some thoughts.
So, one of my questions is about switching air horns.  The original air horn was warped.  It was leveled up using a belt sanding system and straight edge.  I noticed though that soon after start-up the air -horn gasket darkened around the edges and where a section of the gasket protrudes on the front adjacent to the accelerator pump. Does this indicate the air-horn has a sealing problem? Can I swap out an unwarped air-horn from one of my parts carbs (same number)? 
 Also, I have been torqueing the air horn screws to 20 INCH lbs.  That is as low as my inch pound torque wrench goes. Is that too much torque?

This carb uses the non-windowed fuel inlet.  I prefer to stay with the factory style for now but I am not sure of the size.
Thanks.
Jeff

 

Offline Cliff Ruggles

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Re: air horn swap
« Reply #1 on: October 22, 2010, 06:53:24 PM »
The main body to airhorn gasket in our kit for that carburetor number is .015" thicker than the stock gasket.  It's usually best to keep the original airhorn with the main casting, as all of them warp to some degree, but you can swap them from another carb with the same part number if the parts fit well together. 

The .015" thicker gasket will take care of the leakage at the front of the airhorn.  We will include a solid fuel inlet seat in any diameter requested, and a Viton tipped needle.

I would use a large handle flat blade screwdriver that fits the fasteners in our new kit and tighten them down about as hard as possible by hand.  Go back thru the tightening sequence several times to make sure the airhorn flattens out nicely and seals effectively.  We include a complete fastener set with the HP kits to replace the Torx headed factory screws......Cliff