Rebuilt--fires once, won't restart 7044203

[67elco]

Originally, the car had a thin gasket, stainless gasket that had rtv on it for some reason, and then what appears to be a 1/4" spacer. I did not reuse the stainless gasket as it was damaged. I tried running the car with the new gasket from your kit and the spacer and it ran horribly.

I'm assuming the stainless gasket will need to be replaced and then reattempt.

[73ss]

Is your coil reading 12.3 ohms or 12.3 K (Thousand) ohms?  If it actually is 12.3 ohms from the center to either side of the coil, It is shot.  1.5 ohms from side to side sounds about right.

Off the top of my head you should see 5~8 thousand ohms from the center post to either side.

Just had a bad coil myself this past week. My fathers 54 Jaguar would start to act up and die after 30 min or so of driving. Then it would re-start after a cool down. Ended up being the coil, I brought a spare along and swapped it on the side of the road and it fired immediately.

The old coil would gain 1000 ohms from cold to hot. No good.

[67elco]

With the heat shield installed, and the old spacer, it finally ran decently.  I was able set the idle, and the fast idle also appeared to work correctly and kick down. With the vacuum gauge hooked up, it was showing around 18-20 under light throttle. 

It seemed happy to idle at around 850-900 rpms, but I did notice that at idle it was still running rich. Adjusting the idle screws in further did not appear to make any difference.

On a hot start, it cranks over with no throttle input, which is nice.  On a dead cold start, one pump of the accelerator would set the choke about 1/4" open, but it would not crank over well at all. If any one has pointers on setting up a divorced choke, please let me know. 

I have some bad belt squeal when revving it more than 50%, which I suspect is due to the alternator being misaligned with the other pulleys.

I'm embarrassed about not knowing about the hot slot, but here we are.

[Kenth]

One pump on accelerator with cold engine should set the choke 100% closed, no more no less.

[Cliff Ruggles]

If you are using a 1967-69 SBC cast iron intake with the "hot-slot" the slotted gasket goes against the intake, then the steel shim gasket, then the carburetor.

No need for any additional gaskets or spacers and adding them will make the divorced choke rod too short and you may have leaks on the long side of the exhaust slot.

I would return to the stock set-up under the carb and start your testing over.  I stock those gaskets if you need one, they are discontinued by many manufacturers and getting difficult to find......

[67elco]

Got it, I will definitely do that. The spacer the car came with is really old and it's also not giving much thread engagement on the studs. And yes, it's still the original cast iron intake.