Electric Choke Issues?

[TravisUT]

Yes, I have blocked off the hot-air intake ports.

[TravisUT]

Carb seems to be running good, from what I can tell with my limited knowledge. Truck starts right up and drives just fine. However, still getting some wet spatter dripping from the exhaust pipe during warm up. My idle mixture screws are 3.5 turns out, set with vacuum. Do they need to come out more? How long should it take to burn the richness out now that the carb is adjusted? I just don't trust it...

[Cliff Ruggles]

I don't understand "blocking the hot air intake ports".  Did you block them at the housing or BEFORE the housing? 

[TravisUT]

Blocked off at the housing. I've included some pics and video of what's happening. Started it up this morning and got very little, if any, smoke, but still the wet spatter. In touching & smelling it, I think it just water, doesn't smell like fuel. However, the exhaust smell is very "rich", burns my nostrils when smelling it. When starting it, the truck starts right up, and the choke will open very quickly, within just 2-3 mins, and the rpms will skyrocket until acceleration when the cam drops.

Also, I just noticed today that the airhorn gasket is wet with fuel, around the accelerator pump at least.

Here is a link to the videos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/67hDm1C7zcf3LjRf8

[Cliff Ruggles]

Part of the electric choke "conversion" requires blocking off the vacuum supply BEFORE the housing.  This can be done under the plastic choke seal, inside the plastic choke seal, or in the passage in the housing just after the seal.

Otherwise you have not only a vacuum leak that sucks unfiltered air into engine, it pulls in cold air that can effect the operation of the electric choke.

You mentioned that the engine and carb were "rebuilt" 3 years ago?  What exactly was done to the engine?  Did you put one of my rebuild kits in the carburetor?

Running rich ever since this work indicates something isn't quite right someplace and may be contributing to your issues......

[TravisUT]

Thanks Cliff. Do you have some pictures of those locations, to help me understand better?

Engine had a cylinder that was stuck with rust; had an engine shop strip it and rebuild it. Carb was disassembled, cleaned and rebuilt, using a kit from another seller.

[Cliff Ruggles]

Since your problems have been present since the "rebuild" I'd get one of my rebuild kits and start over.  While you are in there check the power piston height, and make sure the power piston hanger arms aren't bent, up, down, or both.  Since you used someone else's kit that may be part of the root issues you are having, low quality/incorrect internals, gaskets, etc.  My rebuild kits are application specific and not "generic".  They come with the correct parts, and highest quality in this industry.  They are also the most complete in this industry......