Hard hot start, rich at idle?

[68rs/ss]

Hello. Rebuilt my 17056200 using one of your kits. It has been a year or two since I did the rebuild, but I just got the car on the road. Its a 68 Camaro that I have been working on for the past nine years. It has a 10;1 355sb with SR torquer heads with some bowl work done. RPM Q-jet manifold, extreme energy 274h camshaft, 230 intake, 236 exhaust, headers with x pipe RS500 5 speed and 3;73 rear gears. Idles at 800rpm and has 11hg vacuum.
Cliff recommended I use the third recipe from his book. I used a blue spring for the power piston. I have not tried tuning that yet.
After a drive and shutting off, it seems to flood slightly and will need to roll over several times to start again. Pedal to the floor helps, indicating flooding. Looking down the top of the carb, white vapour can be seen. Before getting the idle down, nozzle drip could be seen, but not so obvious now. I have rechecked the float level and it is at 1/4 inch. Also, idle mixture screws do not seem to have a great deal of response to the engine. I removed a small vacuum hose and the RMP increased slightly. Car seems to run a little better when cold at lower RPM. Cruising around town at 30mph and 1500 rpm, it seems to have a lean miss. Maybe that's the cam as it smooth's out going down a gear and bringing the RPM's up to 2000.
Timing is set at 14 initial and a total of 34-36. I hooked up the vacuum advance using a ported source. There is no difference if I disconnect the vacuum advance. Still trying to figure out the MSD e-curve distributer, so still playing with that.
One last point of info. Under hood temperatures seem high. Gauge does not show engine over heating.
Sorry for the long post. Just wanted to put as much info as possible.  I have been reading some past post's, I wonder if it needs to be a little richer at idle? Other than that, full power seems really good.
Thanks!
Phil

[Cliff Ruggles]

If you have nozzle drip it needs more idle fuel, and most likely more idle bypass air.

Loading up after shut down may be a completely different problem.  In most cases it's leaking from the bottom plugs.....Cliff

[von]

Just thought I'd add that I had a slight flooding problem after shut down (stock 350 Chevy) due to an aftermarket off-brand replacement fuel pump with too much pressure. An AC Delco pump cured it.

[68rs/ss]

Thanks for the replies. I do have an aftermarket mechanical fuel pump. I will check the pressure before removing carb and checking well plugs again. 6 lbs. maximum right? The well plugs seemed good at the time of rebuild, but I might have missed something.
Checked my notes and this what I found for the modifications to the idle system.
Idle tube @ .038.
Upper and lower air bleed @ .070".
Idle by-pass air @ .106".
Mixture screws @ .099".
I will let you know what I find in a few days. Work is getting in the way.
Phil

[blazer74]

I also have had the hot start flooding problem due to the fuel pump holding too much pressure compounded  by heat expansion. Cured mine with an aftermarket edelbrock street pump, it drops off pressure soon after shutdown. I have the pump setup without the return line.

[68rs/ss]

Just checked and found to have 8-9 psi. I will replace my mechanical pump with a Edelbrock RPM street pump that has a maximum of 6 psi. Hopefully that will cure the flooding problem.
Thanks.
Phil

[68rs/ss]

Replaced the fuel pump with a "Carter muscle car mechanical pump" and it seems to have fixed the flooding while hot. Thanks for the help there.
Does the car need to be a little richer on the jetting or the idle? When it is cold and there is a little bit of electric choke on, the car has noticeably better throttle response and seems to come alive.
Phil

[Cliff Ruggles]

Improved performance driving would be jets/metering rods.  Might want to raise the APT slightly and see if things improve?.......Cliff