Author Topic: Idle bypass air PLUS hot air choke?  (Read 2453 times)

Offline SkinnyG

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Idle bypass air PLUS hot air choke?
« on: February 21, 2014, 05:24:51 PM »
My carb came with 0.080" idle bypass air already in place.  I am currently running a hot air choke.  It runs alright, I'm just not sure how far I should really be opening the throttle plates.  Should I add some more Idle bypass air?

The engine is a Chevy 350, approximately 10.9:1, 230@050, 0.470", 108LSA, 104ICL, hydraulic flat tappet.

I just finished putting together a 17057202 with the following (generally on the high side of Recipe #2):

Air bleed (body): 0.125"
Air bleed (air horn): 0.125"
Upper idle air bleed: 0.070"
Lower idle air bleed: 0.070"
Idle Tubes: 0.039"
Idle channel restriction: 0.052"
Mixture screw openings: 0.101"
Idle bypass air: 0.080" (unmolested)
Edelbrock black PP spring (6"Hg)
Main jets are 0.077"
Primary rods are 52K
I made the APT adjustment accessible

The engine idles at about 12-13"Hg

Great book, by the way.  Very well put together.

Offline SkinnyG

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Re: Idle bypass air PLUS hot air choke?
« Reply #1 on: February 21, 2014, 05:55:35 PM »
Idle channel restriction: 0.052"

Wait - maybe that was supposed to be 0.058"  Looks like I'm going back in.

Should I add .005 or .010 or ??? to the idle bypass?

Offline SkinnyG

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Re: Idle bypass air PLUS hot air choke?
« Reply #2 on: February 22, 2014, 03:28:24 PM »
I think I've found my answer in further research.  I'm just going to add more until there is only slight throttle plate action happening.

Offline Cliff Ruggles

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Re: Idle bypass air PLUS hot air choke?
« Reply #3 on: February 26, 2014, 05:13:18 AM »
Idle bypass air is used to lower the throttle angle to prevent nozzle drip.  If you have full control of idle A/F with the mixture screws, and no nozzle drip, then no additional bypass air is needed.

A lack of idle fuel will require the throttle plates to be open further to sustain the engine, so it will pull some fuel from the boosters.

This can be difficult to evaluate when testing.  A good way to find out is to get it idling the best that you can, and look into the carb to see if any fuel is coming from the boosters.  If it is, you can tip the choke flap in slightly or gently put your hand over the choke horn to see if the engine smooths out, and speeds up some.  If it does, you need more idle fuel, which will allow the throttle plates to be closed more, and get the carb back on the idle system.

Those are also pretty lean metering rods for what you are doing, and very limited control of the A/F at part throttle.  I'd install a different primary metering rod. 

If you didn't get one yet, I'd also install one of our accl pump assemblies as well, they have a custom seal on the pump that will hold up in this new fuel.  The "blue" seals on the over the counter stuff will fail, and the "high performance" pump Edelbrock sells is a complete POS.....IMHO.....Cliff