Bog From Dead Stop

[Cliff Ruggles]

Next verify it is getting a full 12 volts.

Then verify that the heating element is getting hot

You will need to remove it for the last test.....

[BanditRich]

What's happening with the choke is I start up the car & it's on high idle & stays there no matter how long I wait to put it in gear. When I had the Edelbrock carb on there with an electric choke once it got to normal running temp I would tap the gas and it would drop down to low idle.
That does not work with this Quadrajet. When I put it in reverse or drive it instantly drops to low idle.
And after I drive it and put it in park it goes right back up to high idle.
I checked for voltage and it has it. Maybe I need a new electric choke?

[BanditRich]

I will be checking to see if the heating element heats up on Monday. I'll let you know if it is and you can advise me what to do  after that.

[Cliff Ruggles]

I test them on a 12 volt battery.  Ground the backing plate on the ground post.  Hook up a wire from the + post.  It should start heating up immediately and within 1-2 minutes the metal coil spring should be hot enough in the center you can't keep your finger on it......

[BanditRich]

Thanks for the instruction I'll let you know Monday after I test it.

[BanditRich]

Cliff - what Kenth said - "I would make sure the secondary throttle blade shaft lockout lever is removed from behind the choke.
If the choke gets cooled and not are fully open this will stop WOT maneuvers. " -
Should I get the electric choke working correctly before I go adjusting the secondary air valve? It isn't having any problems with WOT from 20 mph & above; it's just not launching the way I know it should be.

[BanditRich]

The electric choke is now working. When I get the chance to do some WOT tests I will let you know how it goes.

[BanditRich]

Well yesterday when I started it up to go to a cruise night I noticed it wasn't idling as high as it was the day before when the electric choke worked like it's supposed to. Saturday as the car was running getting up to operating temp it was idling at 1000 rpm and when I tapped the gas it dropped down to around 650. Yesterday it was idling at around 750 and when it reached operating temp & I tapped the gas it didn't drop down at all.
Today I started it up and when it reached operating temp it was idling at 1000 which I thought was encouraging because that's where it was at when the electric choke worked properly Saturday. When I tapped the gas it only dropped to about 900 rpms. I took it for a ride around the block and when I put it in park it was idling around 650. In drive it is always running around 450 - 475 rpms unless my foot is on the gas. I'm thinking possibly the relay fuse needs to be replaced? Exactly where is it located?
As far as the car's acceleration goes I had put the secondary air valve spring at 3/4 turn as you suggested and it made the car slower. So I put it at 1/2 turn and it's a lot better but I'm thinking of trying it at 1/4 turn. The only thing that's holding me back from trying it is it was a PITA adjusting it the 2 times I did. First I had tried using a single Allen wrench  - the one that looks like an L- and the screw wouldn't loosen. I had to use an Allen wrench set and make sure not only was I holding wrench perfectly straight but I also had to be using upward pressure against the bottom of the wrench set to get the screw to loosen; and do the same thing to tighten it back up.
I feel the acceleration could be even better than it is right now but the effort to achieve it is holding me back. Is there a special tool to make it an easier proposition to adjust the secondary valve spring?

[Cliff Ruggles]

First thing to do is to verify that when fully warmed up the fast idle cam is all the way down.

At that point it's not possible for the choke to cause this idle all over the place when warmed up. 

This assumes all those parts and correctly installed, well lubricated and moving freely.

If you still see RPM's varying at idle speed I'd look at other things like the timing not being back to the base setting (weights sticking/springs too light).

Also check the throttle plates to make sure they aren't sticking in the bores.......Cliff

[BanditRich]

Will do Cliff at some point this weekend.

[BanditRich]

I had tried manually moving the fast idle cam down & up and it had resistance doing so. I sprayed it with WD-40 and it moved smoothly. Lo and behold I started it up and it went into high idle at 1000 rpm and once the engine reached normal operating temp I tapped the gas and it dropped down to 675. I took it for a spin and in drive when I stop at a turn or red light it idles at 450 rpm.
I started it up yesterday morning to go to a car show and the electric choke worked again as it's supposed to. And when the show was over when I started it up it worked again. I would say it's fixed.
Now to start a thread with the OTHER issue with the carb.

[Cliff Ruggles]

Good news!...