Video of bog and die problem

[dkraven]

https://youtube.com/shorts/2mJjbUTtik4?si=vpl7nwg1yskoEhSa

https://youtube.com/shorts/3TgAzOTXzc8?si=njhpAi5TVdd1Phmq

Here's video of my issue that I posted about previously. It's idling at 1100, of course idle decreases when put in drive, and then when given throttle it dies. Thought it was the accelerator pump but that squirt is decent isn't it? I should add that when given throttle in park there's no bog and it revs nicely.

[Tyler73Deville]

Check timing, make sure it's good.
look for vacuum leaks, check the float and the n/s assembly. I see some gas puddling around the pump shaft, buy cliffs SR rebuild kit since the gaskets are high quality and don't "wick" like the other rebuild kits do, it even comes with a new accelerator pump you can launch a flighter jet with and float you said you did not replace in the previous post.

[Cliff Ruggles]

Three things need to happen with a quick/heavy application of the throttle to prevent stumble, hesitation, bog or stalling like you are seeing. 

The accl pump shot MUST be instant and deliver adequate fuel to cover up a lean condition.

The power piston moves up at the same time and must move quickly with quick throttle movements.

Ignition timing advances with RPM.  The advance curve should start right off idle speed and advance smoothly as RPM's increase.  A delay there or not advancing at all will add to your carb issues.....

[dkraven]

I'm going to rebuild it again with your kit, so will hopefully address accel pump and power piston issues there. Your accel pump quality should make a difference. What should I do to make sure the power piston is performing correctly when I rebuild it?

Someone told me to just  add bushings on the primary shaft because there's a good chance I'm losing vacuum there when I apply throttle. Thoughts on that?

[Cliff Ruggles]

Installing bushings will do NOTHING for that issue as when you apply throttle vacuum drops off. 

Bushings are still a good idea as it reduces side play at the primary shaft to less than .001" and eliminates any vacuum leaks at idle speed which can have a negative effect on idle tuning.....

[quadrajam]

That is one terrible bog. And the accelerator shot is not that bad. Somthing
wierd is going on. Give us some more details...Vac advance to ported or manifold?
Does it rev up if opened slowley? Can you drive it if you baby it? Timing details...

Idling too good to be a serious vacuum leak.

QJ

[dkraven]

Ported vacuum. Slow throttle is where it bogs most consistently. My method for getting it running is putting it in drive, letting it creep forward in drive, and then giving it some quick throttle to rev it. Once there I can drive until I have to stop again.

It never dies when I give it throttle while in park. Slight tilt of the throttle revs it nicely. It’s only once in drive and given throttle that it happens. Someone mentioned torque converter, but it doesn’t mind being in drive, creeps forward easily, and then dies when given light throttle.

I’ve had initial timing from 12’ to 35’! I know 35 isn’t good, and the starter chugs hard, but when at 30’ initial it doesn’t die at throttle application.

No vacuum leaks that I can find spraying all around the engine, carb, and vacuum tubes with carb spray.

 

[quadrajam]

I just backed up to several posts of yours to get a better idea of whats going on.
Get one of cliffs kits. He mentioned proper gaskets as well as acc pump being issues.
That would be a good starting point.  Acts like no off idle fuel. As mentioned previously the
power piston has to be free to travel with proper spring.

Try disconnecting vacuum advance totally and see if anything changes.

[dkraven]

My kit arrived today, so that's what Ill be doing this week!

Any thoughts on hooking the vacuum can up to manifold to see if that makes a difference in smoothing out the transition to primaries?

I didn't get new jets or power piston rods though now I'm wondering if I should tweak those if this doesn't solve the problem. I guess I'm hesitant to do that because 15 years ago this truck ran fine and getting the carb back to as stock as possible seems the best path.