Quadrajet runs better without accelerator pump.

[NathansCorvette]

Hello all,

1974 Corvette L-82 stock quadrajet. I had been struggling with tracking down the cause of an issue for a long time until recently. The issue was this: Car started right up when cold, idled and sounded great. If I was to rev the engine it was snappy and responsive. Once the engine got up to temp, the throttle response greatly diminished. This resulted in a bogging sensation that could nearly kill the car if repeatedly rev'd. It made 1st gear starts awkward.

I wrote an exhaustive list of every suggestion that was made on CorvetteForum and went through checking/re-adjusting each item. This included timing, idle mixture, re-torquing carb/intake bolts, isolating all vacuum lines, verifying the vac advance works, verifying choke works, checking for vapor lock/heat soak, etc... No change to the issue at all.

Any time there is a post about throttle hesitation the first thing everybody says is "Your accelerator pump is weak and not giving enough gas! There's a momentary lean condition!" Back when I rebuilt this carb, I found the old accelerator pump completely broken and replaced it with the new one in the Cliff's High Performance rebuild kit. Keep this in mind that before the issue started, the accelerator pump was giving no fuel shot.

At the very end of my list was to see if messing with the accelerator pump changed anything. First, I moved the pump rod to the outer hole on the pump arm. Immediately, I noticed that the issue improved, but was still present. Eagerly, I removed the pump arm to completely prevent the accelerator pump from actuating...

The throttle hesitation disappeared! Perfect snappy revs even at full temp now!

But this is weird. There must be some super rich condition where the pump was making it even more rich.

Yes. The idle mixture screws are set correctly. If I move them in any more, it will drop in idle speed and idle poorly. And yes the timing is spot on... I set it according to Lars' paper. And yes I am fully confident in my carb rebuild. I was very methodical and followed a guide by Lars and used Cliff's kit.

My two theories:
Too strong of a power piston spring, causing the power piston to not be fully shut at idle and/or snap wide open when throttle is touched. This should be a very simply fix, if the case. How can I test for this?
The rebuild kit from Cliff's included what is listed on the website as the "HP Accelerator Pump" which "...will deliver more fuel to the engine than a standard pump.". Also available on the site, but not included in the rebuild kits is the "Standard Accelerator Pump". Which should deliver less gas. But remember even with the pump arm in the outer hole (less pump shot) the issue was still half-there.

Linked below is a video I made that shows the issue, shows the acceptor pump fully hooked up sending a full shot of gas at idle, and showing the revs with the pump disconnected.

https://youtu.be/l7fC5txC7a8

Any advice would help, thanks!

Nathan

[Kenth]

Need more info.
Float setting?
Inlet needle clip in correct location?
Idle mixture needles position?
Airhorn gasket correctly mounted for power piston movement?

Ignition system type used?
If points, dwell setting?
Correct voltage to the coil for ignition system used?
Initial timing setting (w/o vakuum advance)?
Distributor weights and springs not stuck?

[NathansCorvette]

Float setting: recently set it to the height specified in my 1974 gm shop manual. I don't remember that exact number. It was set lower before I changed it. Correcting the height made no difference to the issue.

Needle Clip: in the correct location on the float arm.

Idle mixture screws: set with a tachometer and vacuum gauge. I have ran the screws all the way in and all the way out and everywhere between and it made no change to the issue.

Airhorn gasket: it is in correct position and allows power piston to move.

Ignition system: uses points. all new points, cap, rotor, condenser, and coil, put on in attempt to isolate the issue, no change.

Dwell setting: set with a dwell meter to the setting specified on the inspection sticker. No change.

Voltage to coil: Not sure... it's a new coil and changing it from the old one made no difference. It's an MSD blaster II, old one was an AC delco.

Initial timing: 8* without vac advance. Like the idle mixture, I turned it all the way up, down, and in between and no change in the issue. I found it runs best at 8* initial. Yes, my vac advance can works perfectly.

Distributor weights: I had cleaned them as they were a little sticky. No change to issue.

Remember that the ONLY thing that affected the issue was changing/removing the accelerator pump. Or when the pump was still in, the issue would ONLY start once the car warmed up. Something temp-dependent... Not even changing the idle mixture screws affected the issue. I have been running the car for a month now with no accelerator pump and it's running better than ever. But there must be some underlying cause for this to be the case...

[Pav8427]

Hi Nathan.
 I followed your thread. Sounds like a tough one.
Not sure if this helps, but a couple things to check.
Keep in mind, me and electrical stuff is like me trying to skin a elephant. I could get it done, but would take a lot longer if I had to do it myself.
A couple things I have read on other forums that may or may not cause what you have going on.
I have read that some of the aftermarket distributer caps can cause the advance weights to hang up.
The web on the bottom of the cap actually hitting the weights and keeping from advancing or retarding.
Easy check. Easy fix with a dremel.
Another was a thread where someone set dwell with a dwell meter on their dial back timing light and double checking the point gap was way off of the .018-.020? gap.
They went back and set gap and dwell meter was way off the 30ish*
Easyish check if you have another dwell meter to double check with.
As far as it being a carb issue, I cant think of anything and I am following so I can learn from those who skin elephants more often than I.

[Kenth]

The original ignition coil has 1.8-2.0 Ohm primary resistance and about 1.3 Ohm added from the resitor wire with engine running.

MSD Blaster 2 coil has 0.7 Ohm primary windings and is aimed for electronic ignition systems. Running this coil with points requires a special resistor to get 3.1-3.5 ohms with engine running or the points will burn out and degrade performance.

Using the correct ignition coil could be a good start when troubleshooting.

[73ss]

X2 on the coil resistance.

Have you tried removing the main vacuum hose that feeds the vacuum system and plugging the port? Lots of places for a vacuum leak on a C3, headlight doors & vacuum relays, wiper system, etc.

Maybe you have a hidden vacuum leak and have the idle screw too high to compensate the leak and have too much transfer slot exposed causing a rich condition?

edit: Watched the vid again and it looks like you have it capped off.