Author Topic: Pulling idle tubes  (Read 2308 times)

Offline stevef

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Pulling idle tubes
« on: April 27, 2014, 04:49:43 PM »
I read in Cliff's book about pulling the idle tubes out for cleaning. He uses a drywall screw to pull with, and says to prepare the tip of the screw for that purpose. I'd like to hear more about the preparation of the tip of the screw. Was the sharp end cut off? Was the diameter of the end of the screw cut down? It's not clear in the book how the screw was modified. I don't want to damage the body casting or sealing surface when doing this.

I've already punched the tubes down 1/8", and the collars stayed put, so they are in a good position for the pulling.

Also, it may be there, but I didn't find any instruction on the proper re-installation of the idle tubes.

Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks!

Offline 429bbf

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Re: Pulling idle tubes
« Reply #1 on: April 28, 2014, 02:46:24 PM »
just grind down the tip so it doesnt engauge in the idle tube . maybe 1/8 inch or so.then crank it in till it get tite.i use a nice big side cutter and lay a piece of strap or a lumberyardstick works pretty good. across the carb and push down on the handles. they usually come right out.if not warm up the housing a little bit with a small butane torch.if it doesnt come the first time just screw it in a little tighter. hope this helps

Offline stevef

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Re: Pulling idle tubes
« Reply #2 on: April 28, 2014, 03:35:07 PM »
Good explanation. Thanks for the help!  :)

Offline 429bbf

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Re: Pulling idle tubes
« Reply #3 on: April 28, 2014, 05:17:40 PM »
i install them flush with the main casting . make sure you dont hit the little ridge that sticks up. it gives the gasket a good place to seal. fwiw

Offline stevef

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Re: Pulling idle tubes
« Reply #4 on: April 28, 2014, 06:38:32 PM »
Thanks again for that. Yes, I'm being careful not to damage the gasket ridge.

Offline stevef

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Re: Pulling idle tubes
« Reply #5 on: April 28, 2014, 06:44:27 PM »
By the way, I got the tubes out successfully. I didn't care for the drywall screw fit, so I used a #6 pan head sheet metal screw. Cut the tip off, and it fit in the collar really well, and threaded into it with effective grip. And they both pulled out all in one piece. I used some heat before pulling to get all the help I could, and it worked out.

I have some new tubes to put in, but noticed they are about 1/16" shorter than the originals. I could knock them deeper into the collar to make up the overall length, but do you know if the depth is that critical?

Offline qjetsrule

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Re: Pulling idle tubes
« Reply #6 on: April 30, 2014, 08:48:41 PM »
there is an actual tool for checking the weight of the float against a new one. i guess you could try holding it underwater and see if bubbles come out from it. good luck

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/gp-sorensen-carburetor-float-scale-779-5500/5112087-P