Fast idle cam positioning (and stuck?)

[Benji808]

Newbie question - how is the fast idle cam supposed to be positioned in relation to the pull-off?
In the attached picture, are the silver and green levers supposed to be positioned on top of (by on top, I mean behind/towards the back of the car) or underneath (towards the front of the car) relative to the pull-off arm (the metal piece that gets adjusted by the spring and screw).

Also, whenever I try to adjust and understand this part of the carb, it seems like those levers get "stuck" - they move freely and then "click" into a place and I'm not sure if I can/should break them free. See the video link below. Is that range of movement normal, or is something binding up?

https://youtube.com/shorts/AG025hYATKc?feature=share

Thank you very much!

[Benji808]

Self-update 

I pulled the carb off, and think I (mostly) figured it out. The choke arm sits behind the cam (?) levers so it can pull the butterfly open when vacuum is applied. The lockout was being caused by the fast idle lockout (not sure if that's what it's called) at the base of the carb. Once the carb was off it was pretty easy to use my vacuum gauge to test everything and set the choke pull off where I think it needs to be. Car started up and drove nicely - so far so good!

[Cliff Ruggles]

The choke pull-off provides two functions.

It unloads the choke on a cold start to put the choke flap at the ideal angle so the engine doesn't flood out from being too rich or stall from being too lean.

It also holds the secondaries tightly shut when the vacuum is high then allows them to open when you go to full throttle. 

On a cold start the operator must depressed the throttle to put some fuel into the engine via the accl pump and at the same time the choke coil raises the fast idle cam to the highest position.  That green lever under the cam lines up with the part on the pull-off that is adjustable via the Phillips head screw.  When you start the engine the choke pull-off unloads the choke to a specified angle based on where you set-it.  The tuner also has to set the fast idle speed on the high cam step so the engine has enough RPM to stay running and at the SAME time adjust the angle of the choke flap.

There are "basic" settings listed for all carburetor part numbers but they only get you close.  Fine tuning is required with these things and with a little effort you can find the most ideal settings.  It may take a couple of dead cold start-ups as things change very quickly as the intake heats up.

The set-up you have is the best offered on a Q-jet.  No bending any parts, just turn a couple of screws and dial things right in.

I would also recommend getting rid of the rubber hose and clamps and going to a solid steel line form the fuel pump to the carb.  It is NEVER a good idea to use rubber hose and clamps on the pressure side of the pump and it you do at least take the time to put a "bulge" in the cut line so the hose doesn't slip off.........

[Benji808]

Thanks, Cliff! I did order a new hard fuel line and plan to put it on shortly.