17084223 float height

[65malibu]

I'm having issues with my carb loading up when I stop at a red light. Float level is set at 1/4", but I found some old info for that carb # saying the float should be set at 11/32.
The car will sit and idle all day, but if you jack the rear tires off the ground 6" it starts to load up. Let it back down and it clears up. This carb has the aneriod cavity in it, but there's no plastic insert in there. Should there be one?
When I jack the rear up is all the fuel going into the cavity causing the float to drop and flood the fuel bowl?

[65malibu]

Sorry, carb # is 17084226

[Kenth]

Correct float setting for 17084226 is 13/32".
No plastic insert in these Truck units.

[65malibu]

I set the float at 13/32" and it's just about gone. I'm going to try another 1/32". What is the max I can go before it starts affecting upper rpm or is it trial and error?

[65malibu]

Still having problems with this. I tried setting the float to 17/32" and cured 90% of the problem, but now I'm running out of fuel at higher RPMs. Anyone else got any ideas?

[77cruiser]

What's the fuel pressure?

[Kenth]

Float clip in correct location and NOT in one of the holes on float arm?
New correct fuel inlet valve and NOT one of the disc style valves?
Correct nitrophyl float and NOT a brass float?
Fuel pressure 9 psi or below?

[Cliff Ruggles]

Having to set the float level nearly on the bottom of the bowl tells me you have fundamental problems either directly related to the parts used, assembly procedures, or something fundamentally wrong elsewhere like fuel pressure way too high....etc.

We read about float setting frequently on here and I've done a lot of testing in that area.  Even clear up at 1/4" you shouldn't have been having any flooding issues but may see increased fuel delivery to the engine all else being equal. 

I've seen quite a few issue with brass floats in these carburetors and will not use them here.  Even when they do work the failure rate is nearly 100 percent as they have been coming out of Taiwan since the mid-2000's.

Currenty the incorrect N/S assemblies are showing up in rebuild kits unless you bought it here.  I still supply the correct updated non-windowed N/S assemblies in my kits with a real Viton tip on them.  Just like my USA made accl pump seals they come with a lifetime warranty in any type of fuel.....

[65malibu]

I bought the complete kit from you Cliff and calibrated the carb to your specs. It has a Carter M-6900 fuel pump that puts out 6.5 psi deadheaded at the gauge while cranking, not running. The carb runs fantastic other than the issue when I stop quick or the front is about 6-8 inches lower than the back. Is it possible that with the aneroid well plug out the fuel goes into the cavity, the level drops and the float lets more fuel in and causes the flooding when the nose of the car is down? I have no problem trying a new needle, seat and float, but wonder if it'll cure the problem.

[quadrajam]

Very strange....Off roaders and rock climbers like quadrajets because of
the excellent fuel bowl level control. I also have tried different float settings
and found little differences.

Grasping at straws now.....
Does it do the same thing hard braking in reverse?
Any chance of a small hole or crack in the hemorrhoid cavity allowing
fuel to get under the carb?...?

QJ

[65malibu]

I never noticed it in reverse. It mainly does it if I have to stop at the bottom of a hill or stop quick. I can keep it running by giving it a little throttle and after a few seconds all is good. I've tried to look down the carb when it starts dying and didn't see any fuel
dribbling in. Maybe your onto something with a hole in the well or possibly leaking through the airhorn gasket?

[Cliff Ruggles]

I used a 1977 Pontiac Q-jet on five different engines that powered my 1973 Ventura and didn't use the clip on the needle or plastic filler in the aneroid location.  I logged at least 100,000 miles on that carb and thousands of drag strip runs, with PLENTY of hard braking and power stops and never once did I experience a flooding scenario, and the float was set at 9/32".

I'd add that I used as .145" fuel inlet seat and 8.5 psi fuel pressure.

Even with that said I've had a few complaints over the years where folks experienced momentary flooding when hard braking or panic stops when they left the plastic filler cup out, so if you have one I'd certainly put it in the carb as there are no negatives that I know of from using it.

I've also had a couple of complaints when folks left the clip off the needle that it got "glued" in place when the carb dried up.  Makes me wonder what type of fuel they were using that left sticky residue behind to cause that, but for sure if you use the clip and adjust it correctly that's not going to happen if/when you leave the vehicle sit for weeks and months at a time.

Anyhow, adding bowl volume is a complete waste of time/funds and that would be the only reason I can think of to leave out the plastic up on a later carburetor.  In any and all scenarios you simply need to keep the bowl full.  This means paying attention to fuel delivery and fuel inlet seat diameter not adding more fuel to the bowl......

[65malibu]

The carb didn't have one in it when I rebuilt it. Is that something you sell or should I go scrapping? I will also check the well for hole in casting and possibly stains from leaking at the air horn gasket. Could it be leaking into the cavity where the idle bypass air pulls from? I'm just spit balling here as I don't have the carb apart yet.   

[Cliff Ruggles]

I have a drawer full of the plastic filler cups.  There are several variety but the most common in the mid to late 70's are the completely round ones.  Some later carbs have odd shaped ones that fit specifically into the "notches" in the main casting to locate them.....