Quadra Leak!

[Toronado]

I installed thick gasket yesterday, it now leaks more
gas than the thinner gasket.
The gasket is not a going to help
the leaking, or unwrapping it.

Because when i took it apart I saw there is a lip/ridge
were it is suppose to seal, its smashed flat at the front of the carb, it is not wrapped.

This lip/edge would be completley lost if sanded down flat and would not help sealing.
If I sent you my old gasket you can clearly see were it seals and were it does not,it
only leaks were the edge/lip is flat from pressure and wear, since these must be cast the lip/ridge cant be fixed.

I dont think it the best idea to jerry rig the original design by flattening the air horn or main body ( it was not flat from factory it had a sealing ridge!) when it does not work. It cant seal with out a good complete ridge!

Not wanting to spend hundreds on new carb, but sending this thing in would cost just as much or more, and would still leak most likely. Since Im not into lighting my engine on fire by thick or thin gaskets leaking gas onto a hot intake manifold.

I heard multiple people have the same problem, after they had it un-warpped, mis-information is heavy I guess. wasted money and time, the thinner gaskets leak less because its the dam ridge causing it!

[Toronado]

one thing would be interesting to try is a non paper
air horn gasket a rubber composite does not wick
like paper does and may help, were carb cant seal.

But i don't no of any non paper gaskets for carburetors?

A ugly fix may be gas tank repair, install new dry gasket,
then assemble, on the outside use the epoxy to seal area were it leaks?

I dont want to by a new carb. damit.

[Cliff Ruggles]

In most cases we don't have any trouble getting a good fit between the parts.

It's pretty rare to have to unwarp a main casting.  In most cases we just flatten the airhorn and let it re-conform to the main casting when the screws and bolts are tightened down.

It's also pretty rare to have to use the thicker gaskets.  It just depends on the condition of the parts, and how well they fit to each other.

If you are seeing a big leak at the front, the parts just aren't fitting well together....Cliff

[Toronado]

Your right Cliff they must not be fitting together well.

I was studying the ware on my old gasket, & noticed
the steel pin holding the float down is not sitting flush.

I'm going to dissemble and make sure
every thing is sitting flat on there. That pin may be
preventing it from sealing, its right there were the leaks coming from.

So should I go back to the thin gasket, since it leaked less?
I thought that pin normally set up a bit to lock the float rear down?

At least I reset my float, and secondary rods and it now runs way better
Im still determined to get it sealed up 100%

Thanks for the help..

[Cliff Ruggles]

Some warpage of the parts is common.  In most cases the parts warp at the same rate, so they still stay sealed up fine.

When parts are swapped from one unit to another, we will often see some problems with sealing the gasket.

In almost all cases, flattening the front of the airhorn and putting it back in service makes for a good seal between the parts.....Cliff

[omaha]

 I agree with Cliff. The front half portion of the carb is the most important part  as far as sealing goes.
get it to seal up first. most of the warped carbs are flat in the front main body and then they take a dive towards the rear (the rear droops down). usually the top casting has conformed to this attitude. but if not always tighten up the front portion first. And I use a pattern kinda like tightening a cylinder head. start with the center screws and work towards the front screws and kinda "sneak up" on the final torquing in a couple of steps or more. I am not sure of the final spec as far as torque but I'll bet it is in inch-pounds.
tighten up the rear screws last. of course some of the older carbs didnt have many screws to hold the top to the main casting and in later years they added more so actually the later carbs seal up better in the front especially. (one more reason I like them).
 Usually the bottom of the main casting is more flat than the top.
       Okay, I got that out of my mind (whats left of it, LOL).  Good luck, enjoy!!

[Toronado]

Thanks omaha, good advice.

What you say about the rear drop makes
since, and I normally followed the books
torque pattern but, your approach
to tightening the front down first is
a good idea- I'm going to try it. (the book is like from the middle out
front screw is # 5 out of 9)

Im still not sure if i should go back to the thin gasket,
it seemed to seep less than the new thick one?

[Toronado]

So I tried a different tightening pattern then the book showed,
& would you believe it darn near stopped
it from seeping out and collecting on the intake.
Th gasket still gets dark from fuel (only by accel. pump) but dramatically
decreased leaking.

Thanks  every one & omaha very cool!