Plastic or brass float?

[Toronado]

Hi,
I've been dealing with seeping gas from air horn.
And after some research I found the plastic
floats are suppose to be bad, because they dont float well
over a long period of time.

My carb never seem to have a float issue, but
it could be partially floating, allowing the power
piston to stay open.

I never have driving or starting problems, but the air horn leak,
and some times a little gas from the accel pump, makes me think bad float,
or a leaking power piston seat. I adjusted it twice, but i didn't test the float?
 

[Toronado]

I been thinking this whole time its a warp thing,
but wait on level ground not moving NO gas should
reach the air horn.

Its not even warmed up yet so it not boiling,
its not moving so no splashing. Must be the gas level,
not adjustable if part is bad.

Time to pull it apart again, man all this carb work, & my house is staring to smell
like gasoline, LOL.

[von]

I don't think plastic or brass float has anything to do with it. If either is new or good condition they'll hold the needle on the seat unless excessive fuel pressure overcomes it. The power valve has nothing to do with it either, it just raises or lowers the metering rods in the jets. The wicking problem happens with mine also without driving or warming up so no bump splashing involved. But fuel does come up to the level of the gasket in the idle circuit (up through idle tubes to top surface of bowl, across a small area, then down back through the bowl through the idle restrictions). Also accelerator pump fuel comes up through the gasket and through the air horn passages to the nozzles. IMO these sources are where some of the wicking fuel comes from. the other is from fuel splashing up onto the gasket from pressurized fuel entering through the needle seat when the float is down some. Just my opinions, your mileage may vary.

[Toronado]

Your right the pressure alone could spray it up on the gasket,
thanks...