Removing choke flap

[gtome]

Can/should this be done if you really dont need to run a choke? Can/should I remove the choke pull-off and the rest of the choke "stuff"? If so, do I need to plug up any holes? I live in Florida and it really doesnt get cold here. Almost have this thing done, Been messing with it off and on for 2 years! Ready to try it out.

[Cliff Ruggles]

The only time you really need to remove the choke is when the exhaust crossovers are plugged off and it is a divorced or hot air type choke.  The hot air can be converted to electric.

Even in warmer climates, the choke still allows fast idle until the engine warms enough to idle well on it's own. 

If the choke is removed, retain the choke pull-off, as it is needed to keep the secondary airflaps from "whipping" open too quickly, and ensures that they fully close each time they open.....Cliff

[gtome]

Well crap! I could have sworn when we talked on the phone, when I ordered the kit and book, that you said I didnt need a choke (and that you didnt run one either). So I didnt order any of the choke stuff. I have the pull-off that was in the kit of course. Maybe I can just use the choke that was there? But I have already opened up the idle bypass to .110

[Cliff Ruggles]

The choke is a convenience item in warm climates, and basically just keeps the operator from having to maintain fast idle for a minute or two on cold starts.  It is not needed, and not a big deal if you don't mind patting the gas a bit on cold start-ups......Cliff

[gtome]

So can I use the original choke? I guess since I have it I may as well use it. If I can remember how it goes together!! Been 2 years since I tore it apart.

Also since I am already here, and speaking of not remembering, I lost the spec sheet I had for the carb. Could you tell me a good starting point for the APT?

17057274 carb. 455 +.30 Poncho, T1 single plane intake (for now), Crower 60919 cam, Rhodes V-Max, 1.65rr, headers, HEI.

[gtome]

Oh crap! I dont have anywhere to run the hot air choke to. Guess I wont be using it. Do I need to plug up all the holes the choke used to have?

[Cliff Ruggles]

If you want to use the choke, get one of our electric choke conversions.  They work perfectly and only take seconds to install.

If you go without a choke, you will need to block the vacuum supply to the housing, the big holes where the choke shaft went into the main casting, and the bolt hole just above it.

What jets and metering rods are being used?....Cliff

[gtome]

I will probably try it without the choke for now. And if I hate it, will add the electric down the road.

Main jets - 74
Metering rod - upper step is .44 and .26 tip

Cliff I also discovered last night the carb is missing the rod that goes from the vac can (choke pull off) to the secondary flaps. Do you have any of those?

[Cliff Ruggles]

Yes, we stock them new for all models.....Cliff

[gtome]

Great! I will call today and get one ordered.

[gtome]

I found 2 (Chevy) quadrajets out in the shop yesterday. One looks pretty bad, but the other looks pretty good. It has what looks like an electric choke in a regular housing. Will that work for mine? It looks to be pretty new. And will my idle air bleeds be too big now that I drilled them to .110?

[gtome]

Also I still need to know where to set the APT at? I have lost the paper I had of where it was stock. I took the day off to get this buttoned up (and a few other things) this heat is killing me and I just dont have it in me to do much more after working 10 hours.

[Cliff Ruggles]

.110" idle airbleeds?

Set the APT using our "tip in" procedure.

Test the E-choke on a battery by grounding it on the - post and running a short lead to it from the + post.....Cliff

[gtome]

.110" idle bypass air.

I was hoping to put it on Friday, but it turns out my T1 doesnt have dual pattern for carbs. So I ordered an RPM intake and it should be here Wed. From your findings I have wondered for 7 years if I was leaving power on the table anyway!

[Cliff Ruggles]

.110" is fine for the 60919 cam in the 455.....Cliff