Which to rebuild and confusing stamps

[HeathD]

Hi Guys,

I have been trying to figure out which of my carbs is worth rebuilding (2 complete and 1 in parts).   Just grabbed some generic parts from "the forum online Store", but before getting too many bits I have to figure out what model to repair and what to scrap/sell

the numbers are as follows:

1705 7504 - 1237 AYO - was going to rebuild this one first and swap with the "705" unit

705 8508 - 1078 BJY - on the engine but needs repairing as it is in a sad state. This one seems to be missing a 1 at the front to comply with the numbering convention.

1708 4596 - 1215 JRB. - parts carb.

Thanks for any help here

[HeathD]

Perhaps some more info would help.

I am putting this on a mild (unworked) 350 with headers, driving through a th350 trans and out a 3.o8:1 diff to 28"tyres.   It is being fitted to a WB holden utility chassis (GM Australia "minitruck" style vehicle) and a toyota FJ45 4wd trayback landcruiser body (chopped and lowered - no longer 4wd) is going on top with a step side (chevy/fordstyle) tray to be built on the back.   Is a bit of a mashing together of Japanese/American and NZ vehicles - rat rod style until it is finished then I guess it will blossom into the ugliest custom car in NZ

Cheers,

Heath

[Ethan1]

Hi Guys,

I have been trying to figure out which of my carbs is worth rebuilding (2 complete and 1 in parts).   Just grabbed some generic parts from "the forum online Store", but before getting too many bits I have to figure out what model to repair and what to scrap/sell

the numbers are as follows:

1705 7504 - 1237 AYO - was going to rebuild this one first and swap with the "705" unit

705 8508 - 1078 BJY - on the engine but needs repairing as it is in a sad state. This one seems to be missing a 1 at the front to comply with the numbering convention.

1708 4596 - 1215 JRB. - parts carb.

Thanks for any help here

 Either the 17057504 or 17058508 would probably be your best bet.

[HeathD]

Cheers Ethan.

I thought the later model might be worth doing, but its in bits so maybe I should just leave it at that.   The "705" carb has sticky air flaps (?) and a damaged piece around the choke mechanism so I'll swap the bits over (top plate - airhorn?) looks like it will fit, if not I'll repair and "fiddle with the sticky bits".

The 1705 8508 and the 1708 4596 have the larger primary bore while the 1705 7504 doesn't.

Any suggestions of rebuild kits for the recommended carbs?   I don't intend to run this wagon on a strip, only on the street economically (well as economically as a 350 lump can be - LOL), but wouldn't mind if it was a "little special".

Thanks,

Heath

[Ethan1]

 I would go with one of Cliff's kits. The best on the market.

[HeathD]

I would go with one of Cliff's kits. The best on the market.

That's my intention but rather wondering if I should tinker with the internals too while I have it/them apart.   Maybe set one up for std and one for a little more "go" and swap over when get a new manifold.   A set of headers is on the cards straight away as std manifolds wont fit anymore with new engine bay shape etc.

Should I just go for the sr kit (for the mild as is set up) or should I splash out a little more (for the livened up engine)?   May as well pay for postage once...

[HeathD]

Will be running on 91 octane gas too.

[HeathD]

Any benefit to the more expensive kit over the cheaper one?   

These carbs have an unknown history so not sure of their current internal setup or condition.

[Cliff Ruggles]

I'd build the 17057504.  I'd get the SR kit, and add a few tuning parts to it.  I'd also consider the E-choke upgrade for what you are doing.  We ship overseas daily, best to email the shop at cliffshp@embarqmail.com...thanks...Cliff

[HeathD]

Scored a couple of carbs for $50 today.   One off a 305 with elec plug in the top with elec choke (17085292 2504 HMJ) and one off a 350 (17080512 1153 CRX).

I figure they are good for parts and maybe a rebuild or two.   Elec choke is a nice bonus (just bought one from Cliff so now I have a spare - if it works that is).

Both are in a poor state - surface corrosion and in need of a serious soaking of CRC or WD40.

Still extra bits for the parts box/shelf and maybe I can sell a refurbished one to cover other costs.

Not sure if it is worth redoing the electric 305ci carb (maybe refurbish all repairable carbs to 350ci spec is best).

[Shark Racer]

The E4 Qjets are only worthwhile if you have a computer to run them. Otherwise, they're very fascinating bricks.

[HeathD]

Might just tidy it up and move it it on for bugger all or use it for a paperweight and parts...

[Shark Racer]

If it's complete, it's worth something to someone. With a nice kit from Cliff and a cleanup you could probably axe it for a couple hundred bucks.

[HeathD]

If it's complete, it's worth something to someone. With a nice kit from Cliff and a cleanup you could probably axe it for a couple hundred bucks.

My thinking too.

Wanna buy a carby?

[HeathD]

Right moving forwards,

I bought a new manifold (old one has emissions junk on it so a shiney one was on the cards anyway).   Its a procomp one  - not the best but better than I have now.

Cam is std (to the best of my knowledge) and headers are yet to be made but will be free flowing.  The weight I dont know but probably similar to minitruck weight.   

My aim is to build up a mild street engine (350 with th350) that will give me good economy while doing long distance stuff but still able to put a smile on my face should I wish to blow out some cobwebs.

I'll probably get two kits and do two carbs - one for it as it is and another std one to sell off.   If there is a market here in NZ, I might rebuild the others and try to get some $$$ back for other shiney stuff.   I'd better move quick as the NZ dollar is dropping and the greenback is going up...