Recipe suggestions for a 17087175?

[AnotherMOPAR]

Im curious as to others' findings in similar M4ME models on stock mopar 360's
Im reading thru Cliff's book (awesome by the way), and going over measurements to get an idea where things sit technically. Im looking at the suggested recipes for chevy 350's, and noting siilarities as far as a 'ball park' goes.
Mine are as follows:
360ci 252/252 @.410 and 9:1comp
(stock)
Primary Jets "72": .072"
Primary Rods "54M": .036"/.054"
Secondary Rods "EM": .0775"/.135"
Secondary Jets(Mic'd): .134"  (this seemed large to me but i wasnt sure)
Idle Tube: .038"
Idle Down Channel: .044"
Upper Idle Air Bleed: .088"
Lower Idle Air Bleed: .037"
Idle Air Bypass: .093"
Mixture Screw Holes .093"
Float: 1/4"
APT (turns out): 4 3/4
Idle Mixture Screws (turns out): L 3 3/4    R 3 7/8

Some of these measurements seem a bit out of place in my opinion; and im slowly putting this thing back together. At the moment I was going to replace the brass idle tubes anyways with "OE" ones from cliff via carb#.
But since i am having a hard time finding dodge 360 suggestions to recipes i figured this section was the best to place a post in giving its all measurements related to dialing in and fine-tuning the idle system. This particular carb needed cleaning severely and a float adjustment in the least; but I would like to have an 'adjustable ballpark' by the time i reinstall it.

Anyone have similar notes or suggestions on this model?

[Cliff Ruggles]

If the carb is being used on a stock engine, then it woln't be too far off anyplace. 

If you use it on a different engine, compression ratio, CID and cam will require carburetor modifications to match the new combination.....Cliff

[AnotherMOPAR]

Thanks for the confirmation Cliff; i appreciate it.
Other than obvious crud built up, the only time the carb complained was on an incline under load; hence dis-assembly and inspection [float was suspect].
The lower idle air bleed restriction isn't too small for this carb setup? That was the biggest detail that stood out to me -all the recipes in your book suggest a very consistent .070" opening.

As far as function, besides the float, the carb hasn't suggested a lack of anything in its operation so i wasnt planning on changing any of it just yet. The tubes...since im ordering them...i am open to your suggestions (if other than original should be bothered with)

[Cliff Ruggles]

The upper and lower IAB's average fine, so there would be no need to modify them.  The smaller LIAB improves signal to the idle tubes, then it is offset by the large UIAB so it would draw in considerable air and require a pretty big idle tube to compensate.

The factory did things like this on many carbs for specific applications, based on engine requirements.

A little common sense applies here.  In my book we give "basic" calibrations, and specify IAB and MAB sizes.  If your carbs set up is close by averaging the numbers, then there would be no need to open up one IAB and close the other one down, etc.......Cliff

[AnotherMOPAR]

Thank you very much Cliff; i appreciate the info for my curiosity. If its not broke, dont fix it!
 

[omaha]

I've got one of those carbs on my 318. It has an RV cam [melling brand] the 360 heads and the intake. runs real good. I just messed with the APT a bit and idle mix. I think the only bad thing about the carb is the rear mounted pull-off. but its a truck so it doesnt come into play that much. Need to figure out a way to switch it to a front mounted pull-off. [early plastic type].

[Cliff Ruggles]

They are easily converted to front pull-off, the metal type on the bracket that bolts to the airhorn.  We have straight inlet HP pull-offs for them.  The plastic ones wouldn't work if you did find a way to mount it, they lack the provision to unload and adjust the choke flap angle......Cliff

[AnotherMOPAR]

So i noticed the other day, playing with the throttle, that when m carb isnt under load and i rev it up, after a few moments a small dribble of gas comes from the top of the air horn. Am i correct in assuming i have the float close but too high?
I have no reasons to suspect anything is mis-adjusted from the initial post stats under normal operation though. I just want to be sure before drying it out to pop off the top again.
Thanks in advance

[Cliff Ruggles]

Did you put a new float in it during the rebuild?.....Cliff

[AnotherMOPAR]

The kit i had purchased a year ago came with a new foam float; old one was brown and looked chewed. I changed it when i got the kit, but not this last time when i tore everything apart and took measurements. So...newer float, but not new for this last rebuild specifically.
Thanks again

[Cliff Ruggles]

Our kits come with a new closed cell float which will not sink in this new fuel.  You also get a complete accl pump assembly with our seal and springs on it, lifetime warranty.  We include the secondary cam/spring, new retainer for the power piston, high flow Viton N/S assembly, filter/spring, gaskets and small parts.

I would NEVER re-use a float for any reason, the latest version are designed to be ethanol compatible, haven't had a single failure with one to date.

If you are going over the counter for kits, unlikely anything in them is specifically designed to hold up in ethanol, and much of it is "old stock", as the companies supplying those kits are still using up materials they have had on the shelf for decades....FWIW.....Cliff

[AnotherMOPAR]

Thanks for the info. I will be going that route soon for sake of mind. It was an otc kit; and i shouldnt have reused the float. Im poking thru your book at the moment and that stuck out to me....so i hopped online and sure enough you were stating it again 
Again, thank you.
Im fairly certain the kit i had used that float from wasnt rated for ethanol mixed fuels. The accelerator pump rubber  was....shrunken? for lack of a better term. I had used a different kit and specified the last time, but that didnt include a float
Live and learn.
Im having a hard time finding it in your website (probably just me), but besides everything you stated in your kit, would i be able to get the linkage for the accelerator pump (lever)? I have the later style non-clip type and it has about given its last bend.

[Cliff Ruggles]

Good results require good parts.  Most of our customers have already purchased cheap over the counter kits that are incomplete and contain poor quality components.

We sell accl pump links that take a clip instead of having to drive out the roll pin or bend the end over. 

Kits MUST be ordered by calling the shop, too many questions required and options, etc.  You will find our kits the most complete in this industry, and the only ones with a complete accl pump assembly with a lifetime warranty.

We're here 8am-4pm, M-F EST.....tks....Cliff