Put my rebuilt 17057229 on finally

[Mudsport96]

Like the title says, finally got around to putting it on the car.  Cranked and cranked.. No start, what the heck it always fires right off no one pump of the pedal. Pump five times, fires runs dies. I'm about ready to give up and it hits me, it won't idle with the brake booster fitting open as a vacuum leak. Well, I feel stupid. So I hook up the line, half a crank and she's idling.

Super responsive in park, I'll let it get to temp tomorrow after work so I can set the idle screws and speed. But, I have till April before I can drive on the streets because of my seasonal plates. So I won't be able to do power and cruise tuning for awhile yet, which makes me anxious... I want to get it on the road haha.

But, that gives me time to do some manifold porting. I've found flow numbers for an as cast Performer RPM and for a ported iron Chevy quadrajet intake. And the ported iron blows the rpm out of the water, but that's another thread of its own.

[Mudsport96]

Well, got the car semi-dialed in. Idle is steady at 850 in park and 650-700 in gear. Its a little stinky at idle but, it always has been, I think that's from the 110 LSA and lowish compression of 8.2:1.
Vacuum is 12-13.5" at 850 and 21" in park at 2100 rpm. Did throttle tip in and had 300 rpm rise. Adjusted apt slightly and got a very slight rise so good for the time being.

As for full throttle runs off idle it has a flat spot from idle to about 1800.. I attribute that to the 1000rpm converter. Didn't notice it before the traction bars as it would spin the tires and pull as the tires gained traction. Now that it has traction immediately, it has to fight through the converter till it gets revs up to where the cam wants to pull.
I'll post up more later.

[Mudsport96]

So I got to going through my notes on this carb again, and I think I may have missed opening up the lower idle bleed.
Here are the numbers.
17057229

DCRs .050
Idle Tubes .034
Upper IAB .070
Lower IAB .063
MAB .050
Idle Bypass .125
Pri. Rods 44
Jets 73
Secondary Tube Rest. .032
Secondary Rods AU
Hanger J
Fuel Seat .135

You guys think opening the lower bleed to .070 will help lean the idle out some? Or is it that my camshaft on a 106 ICL with a 110 lsa could be the issue? Its also advanced 4 degrees so its really a 102 ICL.

[77cruiser]

Sounds like it could be a bit lean. What's your timing set up?

[Mudsport96]

Its 14 degrees initial and 36 all in before 2300. Vac advance is currently inoperative, traced a vacuum leak to the advance canister, so its plugged for now.

[Mudsport96]

Sorry that was the old numbers. My problem is I have the specs written down on two pieces of paper, so a few specs are different.

SMAB .050
IDLE TUBES .035
DCR.050
MIX SCREW HOLES .077
Upper IDLE BLEEDS .074
LOWER IDLE BLEEDS .063
BYPASS .125
JETS 73
RODS 44B
SEC. RODS AU
SEC. FLAP SCREW @ 3/4 TURN

Reread the section on idle circuit and it said mix holes to be .090 for stock application. So maybe I'm lean at idle? Part throttle is good though, and off idle acceleration for normal driving that's not instant WOT is great

[77cruiser]

How many turns are the idle screws out? Do they respond? Could go bigger on them.

[Cliff Ruggles]

I'm wondering how you came up with .073" main jets with 44 metering rods?

.125" bypass air is already a pretty big vacuum leak for such a little engine.

If this is a "street" engine you need to use the vacuum advance, or it will require a LOT more in the "normal" driving range to be happy......Cliff

[Mudsport96]

Jim, they are 4 turns out.

Cliff, recipe 1 in the book calls for 74-76 jets and rods .030 smaller. Or later-style smabs with .060-.080 smabs 50-52-54m but this is the early .050 smab divorced choke with B rods? Am I wrong on that combo?

Also, I just have to get a new vac canister I plan on running vac advance, just have to replace it.

[Cliff Ruggles]

The early divorced choke SMAB carburetors are tuned in a much different manner.  They have an APT system in the baseplate as well, and we make a custom APT screw for them, so you can fine tune the part throttle A/F like the later designs w/o taking the top off the carb and changing parts.

Hopefully you have one of our rebuild kits in it, and I can spec out much better tuning parts when you are ready.

We also have excellent choke pull-offs for them, so you can dial in the release time to provide improved performance going to full throttle against the "tight" converter......Cliff

[Mudsport96]

Yep have your HP kit in it with the orange PP spring installed currently. You rebuilt the baseplate and installed the external APT for me. By the way, baseplate looks fantastic! Choke pull off is timed right at 2 seconds and it starts darn near immediately. I just couldn't get the stink out of the idle.

And yes the converter is tight.. I talked to tci and told him all the info about the car, and when he asked what it had in it for a converter I told him. He was so quiet I thought he hung up on me. And pointed out with the cam in it even though its small it needs at least a 2200 converter.

[Cliff Ruggles]

For sure it would need more converter if you want the vehicle to leave hard on full throttle starts.

Those jets are HUGE for one of those carburetors and it will be putting down a LOT of fuel at heavy and full throttle with that jet/rod combo.....Cliff

[Mudsport96]

OK, well I'll try to get a call to the shop after I get off of work.

[77cruiser]

I'd like to see about 10 deg. of vac. advance, to see how it responds.

[Mudsport96]

You're referring to 10 additional degrees at cruise, not manifold vac at idle?
So hopefully I will ba able to pick up a new vac can today and get it installed in the next few days. The 60 degree weather went away and its starting to snow now, so it may be put off for a few days.