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A little warp is normal and fine provide the parts seal up effectively.

Considering the symptoms and issues you are seeing, I suspect a fundamental issue with the carburetor someplace not related to how it's set up.

For example, you mention increasing throttle angle/engine load and going lean. By design that scenario will bring in MORE fuel. 

Next time you have the engine running remove the air cleaner and get up over the carb enough so you can see into the primary side.  Move the throttle quickly and you will see a nice shot from the accl pump and well atomized cone spray of fuel coming from the venture areas.  This is adding more fuel, not less. 

The same thing happens when you drive the vehicle, but it also brings in additional fuel at low throttle openings from the transfer slots above the mixture screws.  There is no scenario that I've seen where less fuel would be delivered with any significant increase in throttle angle and engine load.

I also use basically the same carburetor (1977 Pontiac) which differs the most in having a large front vent tube in the airhorn.  It is set up very close in specs to yours and uses .073" main jets and out tapered .044" primary metering rods. 

It has powered 4 different engines to date with the same basic arrangement.  The current engine is well over 550hp/600tq and it brings in plenty of fuel for "normal" driving and increases fuel delivery with any increase in throttle angle/engine load.

Maybe changing the airhorn on your carb is part of the problem, or something else not quite up to par someplace?  When you use good parts, the correct settings, and don't get acceptable results it's time to look a little deeper at things to find the problem(s).........Cliff
Quadrajet Carb Talk and Tips / Re: Buick qjet
« Last post by Cliff Ruggles on Today at 04:39:25 AM »
Those screws are often case hardened.  They can be difficult to drill out and easy to break the "ears" off as well.

I'm close to 100 percent successful at removing them, but I get more practice than most!

To drill them out you have to "pierce" them with a really sharp/hard punch.  The insides of the screw are relatively soft and once the drill bit gets a good start they drill out pretty easily......Cliff
Dialing in your rebuilt Quadrajet carburetor / Re: Qjet 17057253 on a 380 Olds stroker
« Last post by Seff on December 15, 2018, 08:07:11 AM »
Air horn is crooked, body is crooked on upper and lower mating surfaces., baseplate is flat.
Quadrajet Carb Talk and Tips / Re: Buick qjet
« Last post by mcx on December 15, 2018, 06:45:46 AM »
I had much better luck removing the second idle tube, it came out so nice it could probably be reused LOL....I made a effort to remove the base plate APT..drilled the apt cover and it came off easy...apt was soaking for a day and used map gas to heat it up....that screw is  fused permanent..screw head ended striping..than tried drilling out the whole luck , than moved on to the Dremel cutting disk to slice a channel....its a cluster fcuk!!..i quit!!!   I ended up using JB Weld Marine putty and sealed the damage up..frustrating..but at least its back to where it was originally.
Not a big fan of TBI style fuel delivery systems.  GM must not have been either because they weren't around that long and they ended up going to MPFI......Cliff
Quadrajet Parts and Numbers / Re: 7037211 whats it worth
« Last post by BLUE TA on December 14, 2018, 04:45:49 PM »
hi cliff, happy holidays. I was charging the battery on the el camino and looked at the q-jet on it. it is a 7037211 too with the same 2717 julian code. I,ve noticed that both of the carbs have plastic fast idle cams on them orangeish color. would they have used the plastic on the SR carbs in 1977?  also the 211 I have in my office does have correct jets in it. AX secondary rods and the right primary rods and  jets. do you have a idea what these carbs are worth even as SR carbs? thanks, BLUE TA
i didn't get the impression that you were bashing anyone;  You're just telling the truth  :)

My carbed cars (even with remans) actually start faster than my TBI equipped car.  Usually within 1 engine revolution,  whereas the tbi will have to crank for a few seconds.    i think this may be due to the TBI system having to "see" what the crankshaft position is in relation to the engine before it fires the injectors (????  not clear on this)
In all fairness, it (tbi), seems to run ok when warmed up.

Will order a rebuild kit for now (Was unable to on Monday because back went out temporarily).   And then get a good core.   i've already located two.  Just need to go to wrecking yard to pick up.
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