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91
Quadrajet Carb Talk and Tips / Re: #17057216 or #17085226 better option
« Last post by quadrajam on September 29, 2024, 07:25:11 PM »
Either could be built for power and milage. If originality is more important the 77 carb
would be the choice. I prefer the 85226.  Electric choke, Better castings, more cover screws,
one more throttle plate screw. Needs very little mods for your mild 350. Kick-down works for
700r4 or th350 CHP quality kit and recipe #1 in the book.
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Quadrajet Carb Talk and Tips / Re: #17057216 or #17085226 better option
« Last post by Mlcdc1 on September 29, 2024, 06:58:41 PM »
Stock intake with Edelbrock on adapter with electric choke
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Quadrajet Carb Talk and Tips / Re: #17057216 or #17085226 better option
« Last post by quadrajam on September 29, 2024, 06:37:11 PM »
Are you still using the factory intake with the choke stove? Edelbrock carb on an adaptor?
Or do you have an aftermarket intake with dual mounting pattern?

QJ
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Quadrajet Carb Talk and Tips / #17057216 or #17085226 better option
« Last post by Mlcdc1 on September 29, 2024, 08:24:57 AM »
Currently restoring my 1977 GMC C15 to original as much as possible and would like to replace the Edelbrock that is currently on the stock 350 engine, auto trans with a quadrajet. I have both the 17057216 and 17085226 available. I’m more concerned about gas mileage over power since it is mostly just going to be a cruising truck. Would welcome any and all suggestions on the best option along with best rod/jet combos. Thanks in advance.
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Diagnose a Quadrajet carburetor problem / Re: Rebuilt--fires once, won't restart 7044203
« Last post by 67elco on September 28, 2024, 08:14:11 PM »
I ordered a regulator, hopefully that will help. The fuel pump on the car is aftermarket, but unknown what brand.
96
If it has 8-9 lbs. fuel pressure it could be flooding.
97
Diagnose a Quadrajet carburetor problem / Quadrajet choke affecting timing?
« Last post by BenNoakes on September 28, 2024, 07:07:05 PM »
Hi folks,

I have a 78 403 Olds with a rebuilt matching 17058253 with parts and specs from Cliff. It was running well a number of years ago, then the vehicle went into project stage of sitting around.

I'd occasionally kick it up and needed to adjust the choke for better start or idle as it was never perfect. As usual, somewhere along the way it got worse and I'd tried a few things, I adjusted nearly everything in and out just to record where they were at compared to my original notes and have a think.

The choke fast-idle cam was giving me some grief. In typical carb style I could get it back to starting nicely but stumbling as it warmed up, or hard to start, but then idling nicely once warm.

Then it sat some more, moved house, car is in storage and hasn't been accessible until now. I can't even recall where I was up to but now upon attempting to start it is popping and banging and hard to start like the timing is way off. I haven't touched the timing. I also don't want to at this point as something else has done it that I'm not aware of.

So basically, before I go stare at it again, is there a choke or adjustment setting that can affect timing? Obviously vacuum-advance is connected, hasn't been touched. The choke fast-idle is perhaps a little high but I didn't think it was high enough to pull the timing right out on cranking. And do you think I can find my notes of all the current settings, no chance!
98
Diagnose a Quadrajet carburetor problem / Re: Rebuilt--fires once, won't restart 7044203
« Last post by 67elco on September 28, 2024, 02:12:00 PM »
I pulled the top off the carb just now and verified the clip on the needle was hung correctly on the float arm. I adjusted the float height lower slightly as well. Needle was moving smoothly in and out of the seat.

I removed the old spacer as I found it was causing a vacuum leak, so now it's just intake manifold, gasket, and then carb. 

I installed a fuel pressure gauge between the pump and carb, and it's consistently reading between 8-9 psi.

I swapped in a new fuel filter as the old one looked like it had been in there for a long time. Old one wasn't clogged, but it was dirty.

I also adjusted the choke flap rod to be slightly less curved.  It still is not setting the choke flap in the proper position on one pump of the accelerator pedal.

The car turned on, but ran like it was on 7 cylinders. It ran for maybe 2 mins at most, but afterwards I used my IR thermometer on the exhaust manifold and noticed cylinder 1 was colder than the others. Pulled the spark plug out and it was slightly wet with fuel, double checked the gap and it was a bit wide, so I gapped it down .035.

Checked the plug wire on #1, it was fine. Checked the distributor cap, looks very clean and inside and the rotor looked almost new, very clean as well.

Tested the ignition coil resistance and it was around 12.3 from the side posts to the center, and roughly 1.5 from side post to side post.

Pulled the left valve cover and lash on the #1 cyl rocker felt the same as all the others, no indication of a mechanical problem.

Car still won't run unless it's sat for 4-5 hours, and then runs once, very poorly and won't stay running.
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Diagnose a Quadrajet carburetor problem / Re: Rebuilt--fires once, won't restart 7044203
« Last post by Kenth on September 26, 2024, 11:11:48 PM »
You may have fuel inlet system issues. If lift clip on inlet needle is used it should be hung from behind on float arm, NOT in one of the holes in float arm as this will bind the needle and cause flooding.
I always turn the carb upside down, connect the vacuum pump to inlet fitting to check it holds vacuum before mounting the carb.
100
Diagnose a Quadrajet carburetor problem / Re: Rebuilt--fires once, won't restart 7044203
« Last post by 67elco on September 26, 2024, 07:05:07 PM »
Fortunately I have a spare quadrajet (same model # as mine) I was able to transfer that tube over and I capped it with a plug.  It cranked over pretty quickly, but it ran way worse (didn't think that was possible), but with my vacuum gauge plugged in, it was showing near 5 inches/hg, whereas before it wouldn't show any vacuum at all. 

Again, screwing in the idle screws down to 1.5 to 2.0 turns did nothing. With the choke closed, it won't restart, but if I wedge a screwdriver in the choke flap, it did crank over and fire after a lot of cranking, but again, ran horribly.

I really don't want to hurt this motor, should I pull the carb back off and go through it again? Any benefit in using a smoke machine to look for vacuum leaks that are not from the carb since I can't run the motor?
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