Cliff's Quadrajet Parts and Rebuild Kits

I'd go back to .048 UIAB.

Before I make any modifications to this bowl, I wanted to make sure I understand which way I should go with both the upper and lower idle air bleeds.
 As I'm reading this, I should go back to the original upper bleed size of  .048, and shrink the lower bleeds to something like  .060-.063, is that correct?

 I'm also going to go back to an IDCR size of .052+/- as Kenth suggested as well as slightly smaller idle tubes of .038.
 I'm also going to make the bypass air passages around  .040.
 This should get me back to a close to stock setup and then I can see what I need.
 Hopefully this will get me back on the right track.  What do you guys think?

If you make the threads just deep enough to get the screws flush you don't have to lock tite them.
Since you have a bunch of setscrews you can plug the UIAB & drill the air horn & make the bleeds ajustable to fine tune transition without taking the top off.

I get drills from McMaster Carr too. Set screws only come in packs of 50 the small ones anyway.
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/set-screws/set-screws-2~/thread-size~6-32/length~1-8-1/material~brass-1/tip-type~cup/

    Thank you for that, I'll get some ordered ASAP.

I've peened the lower idle air bleeds from ~.078 down to ~.06x before using an old accelerator pump check ball and a punch (and then qualified both with a drill to the same size).  It's not the easiest thing to do, and the casting ended up looking ugly, but it's one way to address this.  I don't have any before and after comparisons, as it was a new build and I was changing multiple things at once on this particular carb.

Setscrews as 77cruiser suggested would probably be a better idea.  I wasn't sure if I could get a setscrew in there that was short enough so that it wasn't blocking the part of the down channel leading to transfer slots and idle discharge.

 A few years ago I had an old E-Jet that I used to practice on with some of Cliff's technics, and I tried making the lower bleeds smaller using the checkball and punch method, i wasn't happy with the results. So I've been hesitant to try again.
 I did successfully plug and re-driill the bypass air passages on a base plate using some 1/8" aluminum welding rod.
 I was thinking that if you could drill the lower bleed hole larger but not go deep enough to go through to the passage behind it, so that there's a shoulder to stop your plug from going too deep and blocking the downward channel, then you can use a piece of aluminum rod and re-drill it to the size you want.
 The problem with this is that there's not enough thickness around the bleed holes.
 I like the set screw idea. It wouldn't matter if you got into the downward channel a bit with the drill or the tap so long as the screw doesn't go in too far. A bit of Locktite would keep it in place.

 My other problem is I don't have a good selection of small drill bits. Where do you guys get yours from?

If the cam is gone it won't raise the rods, so it will be lean. Should just about die.